Had 4 nights at the excellent Nuova Mestre hotel. It was raining when I arrived on Tuesday but it was sunny and warm the rest of the week. Spent some leisurely days exploring Venice and sitting in the sun. There was also a nice park near the hotel. Then came to hotel venezia on Saturday to meet up with the tour. My friend Johnny Richards is one of the tour guides. Went in to Venice again with the group and got a water bus back which was nice. Evening meal was a bit slow. Looking forward to starting the ride tomorrow but a bit apprehensive as my knee has been giving me a lot of gyp lately since I was knocked off my bike. I just hope it doesn't stop me from doing this tour. Seems like a nice group.
It was an early start on Sunday 24th October as we had a 3 hour bus ride to the Brenner Pass to start the tour. Well, it was actually a minibus. The weather was atrocious - pouring hard with rain - we were glad to be under cover, but what lay in store for the afternoon's cycle? The traffic was a bit heavy and there was no on board loo. One person was getting desperate and asked for a comfort break and then everyone made use of the loos! It wasn't far to the start of the trip. We weren't quite starting at Brenner (the pass between Italy and Austria) but for logistical reasons starting 10 miles south at Colle Isarco Gossensass which was also lunch stop. This part of Italy is South Tyrol and was once part of Austria so is German speaking. The lunch was excellent and the waitress was dressed in typical Tyrolean costume. Then outside to see our bikes waiting for us (shipped over by Peak Tours) and also the rain had stopped and it was clearing - hurrah! (Actually the weather for this tour was fantastic - we only had one afternoon of rain). Today's cycling was fairly easy - 50 miles but all downhill. Basically retracing our steps. We were following the road we had travelled on but mostly on cycle paths. I had programmed all the routes on to my Garmin. I had had my Garmin for 7 years but had never used this feature before! Although my Garmin being a fairly primitive one did not have maps per se, it was a following a black line/arrow it worked a treat. It soon told you if you were off course. And the battery life was fantastic - not so good on the newer Garmin with their fancier mapping. I successfully navigated with it for the whole trip - I only got lost a couple of times and it was easy to pick up the route again. Passed through Bressanone Brixen and eventually to our destination Bolzano and the luxury Hotel Scala. Dinner was at a nearby restaurant. We also met Dick and Peter - two Aussies who were joining the tour from here.
Day 2 76 miles
Today was heading south for the destination of Lake Garda. Still in the predominantly German speaking region of Italy. There were a few climbs. I rode out with Johnny who was on the tail bike today. There was a steady climb out of Bolzano then we headed through a beautiful valley. It was all fairly steady then we cycled through Trento - the biggest town so far. Garmin didn't let me down. From here we went alongside a river and I was with the Cheshire lot who were going at a fair pace. At this point the Garmin said I needed to head left off the cycle path through the vineyards but this proved to be wrong so I got back on the cycle path. The last 10 miles were quite a stiff climb going west and then we could see the view of Lake Garda and a nice descent to the lake and then a few more miles to Riva del Garda, our destination for the night. The Garmin route however ran out a ile before the hotel and as I had been using my phone for Strava I didn't have much battery left. I called Tina and was just about able to see the route on Google Maps. Then I saw Murray who was having a beer outside his hotel. The hotel was a luxury boutique affair - Villa Mirraville. My room mate for the duration was Terry, and we got on great. The bikes were then dismantled for the ferry trip in the morning. I went out for a meal with Murray the Canadian. We found a great restaurant that did a good seafood pasta. Apparently putting Parmesan on seafood is a big no no! As is having a cappuccino in the afternoon! It was a good meal but I spilt red wine all over my Jimi Hendrix T shirt (despite not rinsing it and leaving it stuffed in a plastic bag for 2 weeks I was able to remove the stain by soaking in some Vanish).
Day 3 55 miles plus lake cruise
The morning started with a boat cruise across Lake Garda and was a bit of a cock up. We had to have breakfast and get down to the harbour and buy a ticket by 8.20! It didn't help that certain people mention no names - Terry, Jo and Lena were late. The ferry waited for us but they weren't happy! A nice cruise across Lake Garda to er.. Garda. The boat zig zagged across the lake. I was surprised there were no catering facilities on board as I could have done with a coffee. Also the bikes were not allowed so PT took them in the van. These foreign ferry companies could learn a thing or two from Cal Mac! Once in Garda, the bikes were waiting for us. The start was a a 5 mile cycle along the lake and then heading away to the east and a monster climb - very steep! The Cheshire lot had stopped for a coffee and Ray and the tandem managed to get lost so I found myself at the front! Once at the top there was a nice descent to a river which we followed to the lunch stop which was excellent fresh pasta. Murray and the Americans soon joined and then we cycled off together after lunch via Verona. There was an optional side tour of Verona which we took and then stopped for an excellent ice cream. I cycled with the North Americans for most of the afternoon, but they go at such a pace and hanging on each others' wheels that I didn't enjoy it so dropped off so I could actually take in the sights and not staring at someone's arse just in front of me! I crossed the bridge to the city of Mantova and Hotel Gonzaga at the far end of a large cobbled square (one of many!) This hotel wasn't as nice as previous ones and I can't remember what we had for dinner, probably pizza or pasta again! We found out about Terry getting lost. He was on his own and had no Garmin or route notes. He managed to find his way to Verona. His phone wasn't working so he stopped at an ice cream parlour and asked to use their phone. He called England and spoke to Steve! Steve told him where to wait in Verona as it was on the route and then the Cheshire lot picked him up to his relief. After this PT gave him a Garmin to use for the remainder of the tour!
Day 4 83.5 miles
A long haul today mostly across the flat Po plains so easy miles, but with a sting in the tail at the end! Mostly a fairly forgettable day which showed as I didn't take many photos! We did pass through Modena which is the home of Ferrari. The last 5 miles though were a slow climb up in to the Apennines to Guiglia (pronounced Gweelia). The hotel was Albergo Ristorante La Lanterna which was fairly basic, but did have a friendly cat called Gina on reception! The hills certainly sort the men out from the boys! As usual, the North Americans at the front, but Ray and the tandem also very strong on the hills. We had a buffet in the neighbouring hotel for 25E a head, not great value and portions were a bit small. There was a magician and some folks stayed up late on the grappa.
Day 5 68 miles
All the next days were tough in the Apennines. A lot of steep climbs followed by descents where you lose all the elevation you've gained only to have to climb all over again. There was a steep hairpin descent where there was a Lambo coming up the other way and they were filming it! The end of the day was a long 10 mile steady climb up through a pretty valley - but there were horse flies around at the tea stops - and then a cracking 10 mile descent in to Pistoia. I overtook a tuc tuc and a logging lorry! The hotel in Pistoia was a posh one - Villa Cappuggi. But I needed to cycle in to town to get some money out first. Dinner was a bit disappointing. Another buffet job at 25E a head and very small portions. There was a party of Austrian singers who gave a little impromptu live performance during dinner. I sat with the guides and Johnny and Rob and I exchanged jokes.
Day 6 54 miles Florence to Siena
Another tough day. But to start with the bikes need dismantling and putting on the van while we got a coach to Florence. This was to miss out a heavily industrialised area with busy roads. We arrived near the centre of Florence in a large park. We cycled not quite through the centre and over a bridge and then eventually out of Florence and some steep climbs. It was nice to leave the urban roads behind. We didn't really see much of the city anyway so this seemed a bit pointless. I believe they are going to alter this route on future tours. Probably the best lunch stop of the trip. Lots of ups and downs again until we arrived in Siena. The weather has been fantastic so far for this trip - really sunny and warm but cooler in the evenings. We were all staying at the Hotel Porta Romana which was pleasant and with great views. Best of all we are staying here for 2 nights which means tomorrow is a much needed rest day, although there is the option of a bike ride if you really want to! We walked up the road in to town for an authentic evening meal followed by an ice cream.
Day 7 Siena - rest day
There were only 4 hardy souls who chose to do the optional bike ride today, which apparently was one of the toughest on the tour! Most of us wanted a well-earned rest day! The good news is my knee that had been giving me so much gyp before the tour has settled right down - the cycling has cured it! Which is just as well, as it's proving to be one of the hardest cycling tours I've ever done. Today the weather was beautiful, so in the morning I sunbathed and read in the hotel grounds. Then I wandered in to town with Murray and Terry and had a nice lunch near the central square. They wanted to see the cathedral but I wasn't bothered so I returned to the hotel and relaxed. I definitely needed this day to recharge my batteries and give my backside a rest. I was finding that my backside was getting really sore after a couple of days' riding. I hadn't toured extensively on my Giant road bike before, not day after day but had done many long day rides on it including some centuries. I concluded that the saddle must not be as comfortable as my touring bike. My solution was to wear two pairs of cycling shorts and it worked a treat! I might have to invest in a Brooks saddle as some of the other cyclists have done. For dinner we went the opposite way out of town and found a really good restaurant that was also quite cheap. The only downside was they wouldn't bring the bill despite numerous requests so we all got up to pay.
Day 8 70 miles
After cycling south from close to the Austrian border we now changed direction to head east across the Apennines to the lovely little town of Citta di Castello. Another very tough day, a descent to start with then lots of up and downs. The Eroica vintage bike fest was in town this weekend - it actually originated in Siena. There was a very steep climb up some cobbles before lunch so I got off to walk. Lunch was a buffet provided by the PT van and very good it was too. Terry managed to get lost again. After 8 days of wall to wall sunshine the afternoon deteriorated. There was a climb which ended up in clouds, and this became damp and noticeably cooler. Then it began to rain and for the first time I had to put my rain top on. It wasn't that heavy but by the time we had reached Citta the bike and me had got quite wet. In the afternoon I rode with the Americans who as I said earlier like to go at a fairly fast pace. The route headed off the main road up a very steep hill. At the briefing they said you could avoid this climb by staying on the main road. As the weather wasn't that great either I decided to do just that and picked up the route again just before Citta. My reward for this was being the first to finish. Terry was very excited by this as he wasn't keen on the Americans! Citta was lovely and for me the highlight of the whole tour. Some of us were lucky to be staying in a converted monastery, the Antica Canonica. Despite sharing with Terry, we each had our own room in a vast apartment! The only thing lacking was towels, they only had handkerchief sized thin ones. I managed, and I'm sure the lovely hosts would have supplied us with bigger towels, but Terry chose to use the table cloth! For the evening meal, we went to a small restaurant that Murray had heard about. He was pretty good at getting recommendations. The waitress was great so we gave her a generous tip. I had 'Bat' Spaghetti - which had squid ink and was black! There was some Batman festival going on.
Day 9 63 miles
There was no breakfast in the monastery. PT had booked a café around the corner but it was closed! Tina to the rescue - she managed to find another café that was open and happy to accommodate us.
I think this was the toughest day of the tour. Nearly 6000 feet of climbing and with a long climb at the end up to Villagrande. The good weather had been restored though was quite foggy towards the end at altitude. After leaving Citta on the main road we then took a left to a big lake (Terry got lost again). The morning brew stop was by the lake with terrific views. The sun was out and not a cloud in the sky. We were lucky with the weather because the previous tour had one day rained off (Siena to Citta) and had to be ferried by bus. Also the earlier tours were very hot with the heatwave that southern Europe had experienced in the summer. Next year PT will only run this tour at the beginning and end of summer and avoid the very hot months. There were lots of ups and downs all afternoon but we knew there was a long (8 mile climb) up to Villagrande at the end. I did the climb with Adrian. We kept a steady pace and it was nice to have someone to cycle with for this bit. We had do dismount for 500 yds or so due to a street market. It was huge. Then we eventually reached the top but with a mile to go there was quite a big drop and a final steep hill up to the hotel. There was a wedding in swing so the hotel was quite busy. Another buffet evening meal at the hotel.
Day 10 58 miles
Another hard day, perhaps not quite as bad as yesterday but still nearly 5000 ft of climbing. The day started with a long descent, much of it retracing our climb from yesterday, but there was a turn off which I was watching out for. Matt got knocked off his bike going down hill! He had a few cuts and bruises but his bike was knackered. Luckily it was a rental bike so he had the wheel replaced and was good to go. We went quite close to the principality of San Marino but sadly not through it. Our destination was Castrocaro and probably the poshest hotel of the trip - the Grand Hotel Terme. I had a beer with Johnny and Rob at the pizza place on the corner - where Johnny had had his picture taken with some nuns on a previous tour. Terry joined me and we stayed for dinner - Terry had his usual Calzone.
Day 11 78 miles.
A day of two halves. The first half was more of the same - lots of ups and downs. But then we were finally free of the Apennines and back on to the flat Po plains for the second half, so all in all a much easier day. Once free of the hills our route took us through Imola, home of the famous race track where Ayrton Senna lost his life in 1994. Norman and I decided to stop her a while at a café and enjoy a Coke - it had turned hot again so we were thirsty. Then the rest of the group caught up and we cycled together for the afternoon along the flat plains. I managed to pull ahead and caught up with Ray and the tandem. I enjoyed drafting behind them and we were averaging 20+ mph. We even picked up a 'passenger' who road on our tail for a few miles. The destination was Ferrera, another lovely city with a large cobbled square. Hotel Ferrara was pretty good and evening meal was another pizza with ice cream afterwards.
So, here it was at last - the final day. Mostly flat to start with, but there was a big hill to climb near the end through the national park near Abano Terme. The first half of the day was all flat. Lunch stop was nice and there was a cute little girl with her kitten and rabbit. After Este we entered the national park and there was a large climb to the final tea stop of the trip. Then it was about another 20 miles to the destination of Abano Terme - mostly undulating. I made good time on this last section and finished just behind the Americans. It was good to finish and everyone got a good cheer when the arrived. I wasn't keen on the Panoramic Hotel Plaza as it was a big high rise. Also the evening meal was overpriced and not very good, with pretty useless service, all a bit confusing and not very good vegetarian options. Originally I had planned to stay on a few extra days in Abano Terme and Venice but as I had already had a few days in Venice before the trip I decided to head back the next day. This had several advantages - I was able to cancel the hotels I had booked through Booking with no charges. I could get the airport shuttle to Marco Polo which PT had laid on, and finally it meant I would be home to meet the PT van to collect my bike avoiding the need for another trip up to Glossop. So after saying our goodbyes it was off to the Airport. Ray was on the same flight as me back to Luton. It meant quite a long wait as it wasn't til the late afternoon. All went without a hitch and arrived in good time at Luton and had an uneventful journey home. I was glad I had booked with Easyjet as had no problems. Some folk had flown with Monarch who collapsed while we were out there in Italy! The CAA had laid on alternative flights, some folk weren't disrupted but poor Brian and Nicky who were supposed to be going to Gatwick had to fly to Manchester and then get a coach!
It was a great trip, very different from what I am used to. I really liked Italy as a cycling country. The scenery was amazing, as were the food, drink and culture. The people were very friendly and we had fantastic weather. The only downers were the state of the roads - much worse than anywhere else I had cycled in Europe and the drivers. It was a challenging ride - definitely one of the toughest I've done. It was nice doing it on my road bike and being supported and not having to carry any gear. The route could have been better. It would have been nice to visit San Marino. There was a lot of mountain cycling. I did feel that our loop didn't really feel like we were going anywhere. I prefer routes that go from A to B. PT were originally planning an Italian End to End, but the logistics didn't work out and they found the infrastructure wasn't there in southern Italy. There were lots of places I would want to visit again and spend some more time at. On the whole I prefer my solo tours on my fully loaded touring bike. I can go at my own pace and stop somewhere for a while if I like it. I can also go where I want. It's also a lot cheaper! These organised cycling tours are all quite pricey, but a lot of work goes in to them and we were paying for 3 guides and 2 vans. It's the third time I've been with Peak Tours (I did LEJOG in 2012 with them and Dover to Cape Wrath a year later) and would thoroughly recommend them.
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