Bike Express again - so handy as the pick up is an easy 12 mile cycle from my house. I forget something so have to turn back. I should have had plenty of time but as it happens I'm only just in time as the bus is early! So I frantically get my stuff I need for the coach, turn my handlebars and board. Good news, the coach isn't that full so I get a double seat to myself. It's a quick journey to Dover, then a wait of an hour or so for the next ferry. It's sunny and warm and the channel is like a millpond. The rest of the journey is uneventful, the usual stops and views of Paris. I don't manage to get much sleep as I can't get comfortable. Tant pis! It's absolutely pissing it down in Bayonne and I get quite wet just unloading. Fortunately the drop off is right outside the F1 and I've prebooked. Trouble is it's only 830. But for only €10 extra I can check in early. I don't hesitate! Phew - got my bike and all my gear safely in the room. Some poor souls are heading out on their bikes today. I always have a night in the hotel first as I'm usually shattered after the coach trip.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 1
After a much needed rest at the hotel F1 in Bayonne I hit the road on Sunday morning. I wanted to make an early start as the forecast was for rain later. I took the velodyssey which I had used last year in the opposite direction. A bit of a longer route, but it would be off the busy roads and would take in Biarritz which I hadn't seen before. The Velodyssey was easy to find and not far from the hotel. I followed the river north-west until got to the coast then headed south. I passed through Biarritz which gets its name from the Basque - two rocks. Then at Bidart I met Jan, 67 year old cyclist from the Netherlands who was cycling home! He had legs that would put Chris Hoy to shame! We stopped for coffee , he was good company and thought I was only 35! We added each other on Strava so will be able to follow each others progress. But as my Garmin is an old one now, it would have to wait till I get home and connect to my PC. Just after I left Jan it started to rain and got pretty heavy. I had to break out all the rain gear. Luckily I had put it near the top of the pannier. Still, at least the wind was behind me. I made it to Hendaye and stopped at the same McDonald's I stopped at 2 years ago. Good to get out of the rain and now a vegetarian so went for the fish menu. Then over the bridge and into Spain! The rain had eased off so off went all the rain gear. The Basque region is a bit of a bastard to navigate. I got a bit confused at a roundabout and some lovely local people were very helpful and friendly. They insisted on walking me to the cycle path. Very nice of them but I just wanted to get going before it started raining again. It did start raining, but only put on the top as it wasn't far. It was starting to get heavy but fortunately I arrived at Pension Astigarraga which I had prebooked. What a find! A luxury but cheap hotel in an industrial estate, but a nice area. You go up in the lift. Bike in the lobby and a wonderful room. Dinner is a cod and omelette platter at the Iretza bar and very nice it was too!
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 2
Didn't sleep well as raining hard all night which kept me awake plus shitting myself at the thought of another day getting drenched. Had a nice but small breakfast of freshly squeezed orange juice, lovely coffee and Tostadas con tomate. Still pissing down but forecast says it will clear at some point. So check out as late as possible and miraculously it has stopped so can put away the rain gear! The supermarket is closed and I'm feeling hungry but have to press on. The navigation is a nightmare as it's all small streets through lots of towns that merge together, similar to my previous experience of the Basque country. And my phone is crashing so navigation is even harder. I find a supermarket for some lunch. The sun is out and so are the annoying locals. An elderly woman wanders up and down aimlessly. Then a loose little dog runs all over the place pissing up everything. I made sure he didn't go anywhere near my stuff! Then I had a brainwave, get the train! The station was round the corner, and I realised I could miss out the laborious bit to navigate. The guards let me take my heavily laden bike on! I went the 20 or so miles and exited and had to lug my bike up and down some stairs. At last I was good to go and things were looking up. The weather was hot and I had to break out the sun cream. After an initial tricky bit and ending up on the Autovia for a kilometre I was finally on the minor road which cut through in a semicircle through a beautiful mountain valley. The first third had a very good cycle path. How about having one next to the Autovia?! It was a tough climb up to 670 metres and then a descent to Altsasu. My accommodation was in a shared house and I had the entire top floor to myself! Plus a washing machine and tumble dryer! I pop out to the supermarket to get some supplies for dinner and breakfast as there's none here.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 3 - rest day
After a blistering day yesterday the wet weather has returned. It looks pretty miserable out and doesn't look like it's going to pass. I check online and my room is available tonight for only €25! So it's a no brainer to stay put. There aren't many decent eating out options so it's the supermarket again and my favourite - custard with a biscuit in it!
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 4
The weather is sunny again so normal service resumed! I'm heading to Logroño which is some 60 miles through the mountains so promises to be a tough day. It starts with a very tough climb on hairpin bends until eventually it opens up on to a high plain. I miss the turning without realising and reach some wild ponies. I turn back uphill for over a mile and the reason I missed it is clear. It's little more than a track. So I decided to stick to the main road and then down a steep descent. Then I turn right up a long valley that's all uphill. Eventually I found somewhere to eat and had the menu del dia for €10. Hunger and thirst taken care of I pushed on down a long downhill section. Then there's another short cut that turns out to be a track. After a very long climb I finally reach the top and get spectacular views over Logroño. Then it's downhill all the way. I find the hostel and put the bike in the secure garage. There's only 4 people here tonight. Thomas and Lynn, an American and a Singaporean who are nice and offer me some wine. Plus some crazy bitch from bilbao. Dinner is domino pizza. It's quick and cheap as I couldn't be bothered with anything else.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 5
My destination today was Soria, another 60 miles plus! The one thing that would be easy today was the navigation. Just follow the N111 all the way. However climbing up to 1400m and strong headwinds all day made this extremely hard going. I make slow but steady progress but with little shops along the way and not much of a breakfast I'm running on empty. Then I find a decent hotel place to eat and go for the menu del dia. The starter is ok, but the main is goldfish! Actually golden bream, but I don't eat much of it. Pudding was a coffee flan which was nice. Back in to the climbing and headwind. Then a big tunnel looms. And I mean big - 2.6 km long! Then the predictable sign saying no bikes. Bollocks! The alternative is a switchback up over the col which I really don't fancy in this headwind. So I decide to take my chances and plunge in to the tunnel. Immediately I feel the chill and the damp. But I'm out of the wind and it's slightly downhill. I crack on and it's pretty scary with the sound of vehicles around you and it's so long. Just praying I don't get pulled over. Then at last I'm out but I don't relax until I get past the bit where the other road rejoins and I am legitimate again! Phew! Then there is a long downhill section and I stop at a petrol station and chat with some locals and feed the dog some crisps. Only 20km left, the last couple are uphill again but eventually I reach Soria and find the Hostal easily enough. One of those little tourist trains passes and they all wave at me! The hostal is ok, good location but not quite as good as I thought it would be. There is a bath but no plug :( Dinner is pizza again but I struggle to find a pudding. I score a flan to take out from the restaurant right next door which I hadn't noticed!
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 6
Decided to cycle the short distance to Soria's campsite. Although on the edge of town and next to a motorway and a railway it's really peaceful and there are storks nesting on the tree stumps next door. The girl on the desk is friendly and compliments me on my Spanish. It's quite a small campsite and there is a large party of Dutch coming but I find a quiet corner to myself. The Dutch people are actually lovely. No loud music, the few dogs are well-behaved and on a leash not wandering around pissing everywhere. I have to spend a lot of wasted time on the phone sorting out my rental flat back in Milton Keynes because the agents are useless and the tenant is a pain in the arse. Once I've set up camp I check out the pool and it's very big but the water is freezing, quite welcome in this heat. There are only 2 serving in the restaurant and the large Dutch party are eating so service is very slow. I don't get my starter which is just as well as it had meat! Luckily patatas bravas and calamares with the bread and olives are filling enough. It's good to be back in the tent and temperature is just right, not too hot.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 7 Rest Day
Having a rest day at the excellent Soria campsite and get my washing dry. I had a simple breakfast of juice, coffee and Tostadas. The pool doesn't open til 12 and I realise I need more cash so make the short trip into town and get some lunch too. I spend the afternoon by the pool but it's so hot that I stay under the parasol most of the time but still manage to get burnt! I have dinner this time in the cafeteria which is much better and quicker tonight without the Dutch party. I have patatas bravas again but revueltos gambas which is delicious. Early to bed with the sunset.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 8
Another good night's sleep in the tent! I must have been a nomad in a previous life! I get up early around 7 and start packing but the tent is quite wet from condensation so have no choice but to wait until it dries out which doesn't take long once the sun comes up and it's even hotter than yesterday. The route looks simple - just follow the N111. All good for the first 5 miles but as is often my experience with Spain, the road runs out and you have a rough track which runs parallel to the Autovia. It's tough going but eventually I get tarmac again. Lunch is a nice vegetarian bocadillo. I'm not quite halfway but at least I have a proper road all afternoon and it's deserted. Boy is it hot! My Garmin hits 40C! Ok, I know it's in the sun but then so was I! With his heat I'm getting through water very quickly and I run out just before my destination. Fortunately there's a fuente just in the nick of time! I guzzle the water and then there's a final steep climb to Medinaceli. A beautiful walled city on a hilltop. I'm a bit peckish but make the mistake of ordering a ration of bravas which turns out to be huge. Dinner isn't until 9pm so it's ok. Dinner at the hotel is delicious. Gazpacho with watermelon, fried eggs and chips and a divine ice cream and biscuit concoction.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 9
I wanted to avoid the extreme heat of the afternoon so made an early start. 42 miles so a bit less than yesterday. First there was a big drop from Medinaceli into the new bit and crossed the Barcelona to Madrid highway. Then a minor road up a very steep hill and up on to a high plateau. Completely deserted. Up and down a bit, quite green and wooded then on to the N road. A headwind but mostly downhill so good progress and reached molina de aragon by 2pm. Hotel San Francisco is a bit of a shithole and no air conditioning so very hot and stuffy. Had a snack at a bakery then went to the supermarket for supplies for dinner. Going to try and make an early start tomorrow for a campsite.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 10
Hotel San Francisco was dreadful, probably the worst place I have stayed at in Spain! How it can call itself a hotel, it's poor even for a hostal. The room was like a furnace and I woke up in the night with bites! Paranoid I thought it was bedbugs, then I remembered I had been stung by a wasp the day before. Breakfast was a joke. I was glad to get out. I made a reasonably early start. My plan was to go to a campsite but it was off the beaten track and would involve a lot of climbing. I tried to find it but quickly found myself on a rough track again. So I decided to stay at the hotel in Teruel I had contacted. They said they had a garage for the bike. Only downside was it meant a long cycle, nearly 70 miles and the headwinds were dreadful and just got stronger and stronger. It was one of the toughest cycling days. The wind probably added 2 to 3 hours to my journey. But the navigation was easy, 2 N roads. At last I made it and the Hotel Oriente was wonderful. What a contrast to last night! The friendly man on reception was expecting me and showed me down to the secure garage for my bike and then took the lift to reception to check in. I'd already decided to stay another night. And the air conditioning works! There's a great inexpensive restaurant opposite called Los Amantes and the waitress is well fit. Lovely soup, egg and chips and pineapple with bread and wine all for €11.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 11
A rest day in Teruel. I walked into the city centre to get some breakfast, the usual Tostadas, freshly squeezed orange juice and great coffee. Then I went to the station to find out about trains. Unfortunately it's bus only to Barraques so no bikes allowed until after then. Then I went to the tourist information to get some information on the Vias Verde which runs all the way to Sagunto. I had a leisurely afternoon and discussed my arrangements with Juan. I booked the night ferry for the day after tomorrow from Valencia. I was surprised to find that camping is a no no on Mallorca and accommodation is expensive and in short supply. After some searching I find a great apartment on good old Booking. Com - my lifeline. And it's not too far from Juan and Anna's practice. Relieved to fix everything up I can relax. Dinner at the same place and it's part 2 of the webinar series.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 12
Still about 1000m up and in 2 days I will be at sea level. I find a campsite about halfway near Viver. As far as Barraques I can see N road all the way but after that it doesn't look so good. When I arrive at Barraques I meet 2 Spanish cyclists coming the other way so ask them about the route. They say the Via Verde isn't great for road bikes but you can cycle all the way to Sagunto no problem. But as I pass a group of farm workers they point me toward the via Verde and offer me some beer! I politely decline. I give up on the via Verde but earlier I saw an alternative road route that looked really good but at first meant going a couple of k in the wrong direction. It was a great choice. An empty road that wound down the mountainside and went under the motorway and came out in Viver. The campsite was a few km out of town and very remote and almost deserted. I chat with a lone Dutch camper and eventually the owners show. He looks the spit of Juan. Luckily they will make me dinner so avoiding having to cycle back in to town. Just as well as there's a storm brewing and it's very windy.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 13
I get up around 8 and all is calm. I see a live red squirrel really close up! My ferry isn't until 9.45 pm. I take my time about leaving but am on the road well before 10. I have a breakfast in Viver and then on to Jerica. The guy at the campsite was raving about the via Verde so I decide to try the elusive thing. Eventually I found it and meet 2 cyclists from Bournemouth coming the other way on mountain bikes. They say it's ok but I try it for all of 100m before giving up. I think it would be very slow. Fortunately there is a road all the way. Eventually I get to the petrol station that I got to on a previous trip where I gave up and found my old Kindle had broken. All good this time so I soon reach the N 340. It's still quite a way to Valencia along roads and cycle paths but at least the wind is no longer against me for the first time this trip. Navigation is along bit tricky but I reach the port and check in and get an actual paper ticket. There's quite a bit of time to kill so grab some food from a bar and then wait at the terminal which begins to fill up. I get chatting to a local wide boy motorcyclist returning to Ibiza. Boarding is a bit chaotic. I don't board with the vehicles but get on a bus with my bike for all of 400m. Meanwhile 4 guys with kayaks can't get them on the bus so have to carry them! The bike is the secure on the far deck so can relax and ascend to my seating area.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 14
Survived the night on the ferry! The seated area was reasonably comfortable, but why did they have to have a loud disco blaring out on deck? I could hear a dog barking in the hold poor thing. Against all the odds I did manage to sleep. The eye mask really helped. And I was able to lay on the floor. In the end I was too cold with the air conditioning. Luckily I had my cycling coat, but my legs were cold. I wasn't really aware of the stop at Ibiza. Landed on Palma de Mallorca at 7.30. There wasn't anywhere to change so I went behind a wall to put my cycling clothes on again. I cycled the 10 miles or so to Juan and Anna's practice - Calvia vet. So lovely to see him again. I spent some time there chatting with him and his assistant Donna. I left about 11 to cycle the 5 miles to Peguera to the AtAlaya Bosque Apartmentos. What a lovely place. Really friendly hosts who complimented me on my Spanish. It has a quite oldy worldy feel,very homely. The apartment is huge and has a bath! I spend the afternoon relaxing in the bath and listening to podcasts. Then Juan meets me at 7 and takes me out for a drink and dinner. A beautiful seaside restaurant and we order the seafood paella which is great. We have a great evening reminiscing.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 15
Juan picked me up at 10.30 and we met his family at the beach. Great to see Anna again, her Mum whom I'd met at their wedding in 2003 and their kids Reuben 11 and Dylan 9 whom I'd obviously never met before. We grabbed a light breakfast first, there were no Tostadas so I had gazpacho! Then we went snorkeling. Juan had brought a snorkeling T shirt so I wouldn't burn and it was great. There was a cormorant fishing! There were lots of fish of various sizes. Then it was time for lunch. Unfortunately the first place was a shambles and we were kept waiting 2 hours with no sign of food, apparently they'd lost all the orders?! By this time we were pretty hungry. The Diablito was much better and we had pizza and the service was good. We went back to Juan's house and they have a communal pool. He showed me their new house and then dropped me back. What a lovely day!
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 16
I decided to hire a car today to explore the island. There was a Europcar nearby but the local Spanish car hire was much better and cheaper. I bad a Micra with air conditioning for only €40 for the day. It had a few dents but they were very relaxed and didn't even ask for credit card details just where I was staying! I went to the eastern most point first and stopped for a coffee. I managed to drive the wrong way round a roundabout lol! Then I drove through the mountain wilderness area which was beautiful but painstakingly slow along the hairpin bends. I joined the main roads and motorway to Alcudia, the other ferry point. Then out to Cap Formenta, the most northwesterly point. Lots of shit tourist drivers who can't cope with the following winding roads. After checking out the lighthouse my plan was to go to the furthest east and south points, but Mallorca is very big and the traffic was bad so I knew it was too much. So at Arte I turned back to Palma via Manacor, the birthplace of Nadal. I called in to see Juan at his practice briefly and then returned the car back.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 17
In the morning I just chilled at the AtAlaya Bosque Apartmentos and used the pool for the first time! Juan was free in the afternoon so came round and we went to his house and then in to Palma to have a walk around and an fed coffee. Then we had to pick up his son from school, returned to the house and went to the pool. You always need your swimming trunks in Mallorca! Then we had to pick up his other son from a Laser Quest game for someone's birthday and after we had a light dinner of bread, tomatoes, huevos cocidos and green beans.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 18
Juan was working all day today so I relaxed at the hotel for most of the day and cycled over to see him at 5pm. I had given the bike a bit of a clean and lube the day before and found a German bike shop where I checked the tyre pressures and pumped them up a bit. Without the bags as well my bike went like a dream. I said my goodbyes and returned to the hotel. I did my weekly webinar then retired to bed.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 19
A good sleep - I've slept well all week in Mallorca, must be the relaxed pace of life. And even though there was no air conditioning it was comfortable. I had enough food for breakfast so after that packed up and was ready to leave by 9.30. I said I would definitely like to return here! It was a pleasant cycle to the port. I did think about calling by at Calvia vet but there wasn't enough time. I got to the port at 11.30 and there was the usual chaos at Balearia. The couple ahead had made an error in their booking. Then the woman closed my line and told me to go to the front of the next queue. No-one seemed to mind me queue jumping. Tickets retrieved I then had to cycle to the west port and board. Relatively straightforward, my bike went in a locked cage but not secured to anything so I hope it doesn't fall over on the voyage. Bike was fine. Long voyage. Could eventually see the coastline appear and then Barcelona, the eternal city! Got talking to an English couple driving all the way to marseille. Once I disembarked the jobsworth woman wanted me to put my bike on the bus but I wasn't having any of it and cycled with the lorries. There was quite a traffic jam so was glad to be on the bike. Bit of a cultureshock being back in Barcelona with sirens going and horns blaring and the noisy parakeets. The navigation wasn't too bad and I found myself on the road north that enters San Adria and then right to the hotel. It was the same guy from last year, bike in the room no problem. I couldn't get the Wi Fi to work at first but was due to my phone having remembered it from last year. Went to a kebab shop for a falafel and the bloke got arsey because I sat in for the meal. All good though and listened to mystery hour before bed.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 20
Another night at the excellent hotel in San Adria, unlike the one down the road! Breakfast was a bit disappointing though so I had a wander to get some more. Had the s**** thanks to last night's falafel. Now I do falafel. Bit slow getting going by 11. No matter though as only 36 flat miles to do and there's a cracking tailwind for the first time this trip! Once out of the city it's a breeze and feels like I'm hardly pedalling. The nightmare journey to Teruel is a distant memory. I pass the familiar landmarks including the nudist beach right next to the train line next to the main road! Before I know it I reach Blanes. I find the campsite I stayed at last year, but it's a bit steep at €20. It's the first day of high season, sigh. It's quite busy but I pitch in the same place as last time, wash my kit and hang it out, then put the tent up as the waft of weed comes from the street outside the campsite. Then have a swim and a sunbathe, will definitely be here just one night at these prices.
Post script. I'm informed casually around 7pm that there will be loud music from the bar til at least 2am. Why didn't they tell me this before I paid up? I ask for a refund but they refuse, saying I can move further away from the bar. Pissed off I consult the booking.com app. My lifesaver comes to the rescue again. There is a hostal with a room free only a mile away. I gladly pack up my tent and belongings, my washing is still a bit damp. Hostal Regina was good and the staff were really nice and helpful. Bike in garage across the road. Cheap dinner at telepizza but a noisy night thanks to all the fireworks and bangers.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 21
Buffet breakfast at the hostal Regina was amazing! Best breakfast so far by some margin. Sadly not included though, €6 extra. I've picked up an ear infection probably from all time in the swimming pools in Mallorca. I find a chemist and get some drops. The section from my Spanish book on ailments comes in useful! It's a pleasant cycle - repeat from last year. This section of the coast is very hilly and scenic. Past the campsite at Tossa del Mar, and after 25 miles I arrive at sant Felix. It's only 1pm and I had wanted to get to Palamos. But I know all the hotels are full. So I'm pinning all my hopes on the campsite. What if that's full? Also my ear is giving me grief so I decide to look for a hotel here. I find a room free at hostal Zurich. It's a bit of a shithole and only a shared bathroom plus it's very hot. But it's clean. I decide to look for a menu now in the daytime. I find a corker. Four courses for €11.95 plus bread and a beer! Gazpacho, then mushroom risotto. Then grilled hake and chips plus coffee ice cream for pudding. The best breakfast and dinner in the same day! I listen to radio podcasts in the afternoon, and then get a few bits from the supermarket.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 22
Bloody fireworks and bangers again! Managed to get some sleep but very stuffy! Chucked some bread out to the large gull. Got away and had a cracking breakfast round the corner of usual Tostadas, freshly squeezed orange juice and great coffee. It had rained overnight and it was cloudy and there were a few drops. The first rain since Navarre. After Palamos it's a cycle path as the C 31 is Autovia. It's another via Verde! Meet a very friendly local cyclist who is on his mountain bike but is also a tourer and off to China! After 5 miles or so you can join the main road again. It's quite busy with traffic but in no time I'm at the turn off to L'estartit and a few km later I'm at the Rifort campsite. So far so good - not too busy in the special tent area. This is a great find. Reasonably quiet, only €10 a night (half that shithole in Blanes). Separate area for tents on a wooded hillside. Pool. A fantastic supermarket just across the road that is open 8am to 9pm 7 days a week! After putting up the tent I go to the supermarket and have a delicious fruit smoothie. Then sit by the pool as the sun is out again. And at last I make a proper dinner on my stove of fresh pasta with olives stuffed with anchovies.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 23
Rest day in L'estartit. I've had an ear infection for a few days, probably from all the swimming in Mallorca. I some ear drops from a chemist but it hasn't improved so far so I decide to seek medical help. There are several doctors locally. One is closed, one is open but private only and €50 a consultation but they point me in the direction of the health centre. It's all very straightforward and I make an appointment with the nurse for a bit later. The nurse has a look, no foreign body! (I was convinced one of the foam pads from my headphones had got stuck in my ear!) But there is an infection present. She gets the doctor to have a look who prescribes ciprofloxacin drops which I duly get from the chemist and ibuprofen which I already have. Both doctor and nurse were very sympathetic. What service! To think how long you have to wait for a gp appointment in the UK! And of course with my European health card it's free - which is bound to go after brexit. The rest of the day I spend relaxing by the pool - no swimming allowed. Then another camp fire meal of pasta. It's always enjoyable to cook your own camp meal, shame I haven't had much opportunity until now. Tomorrow I will make the short journey to Roses, but not via the steep and bumpy coastal track this time!
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 24
Despite the funfair noise slept through it ok. Got a few mosquito bites, but not too many considering I had the tent door wide open. It's a choice of either sweltering or getting bitten! Quite a leisurely morning eating some leftovers and getting a brew on while I pack away. I think Camping Rifort is the best one I've been to in Spain. Cheap, quiet, separate tent area, cracking supermarket across the road, pool. Too many campsites are just noisy and overcrowded. I have breakfast at the same place as before, then have a quick look at the beach before heading off. I wisely avoid the coastal path recommended to me last time and stick to the roads. Pick up the C 31 then smaller roads through small towns and villages including Bon Relax! I get slightly lost in one village where Google wants to send me on a track but I soon find the right way. Back up to the C 260 to Roses heading east and in to the wind for the last few miles. I find Hotel Ciutadella without needing the map. Bike in garage and then up to my room on the 4th floor. Better than the last one when I stayed here 2 years ago and right next to the sun terrace and pool! Only drawback is the power is only on in the room when you put the card in the slot. Proper air conditioning too. Easily the best hotel I've stayed at in Roses. Hostal Rom is within spitting distance. I go to the same supermarket as before as the Dia one is awful. Then relax by the pool and dry my washing. I pop out for a bite to eat in the evening. Rain is forecast tomorrow, lucky Hostal Rom is so close! Was a great move coming here today rather than camping another night.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 25
Woke up at 8ish and went down to the fabulous buffet breakfast at the Hotel Ciutadella. Had my fill of pastries, fruit, cereal and bread. Then had a relaxing morning as didn't need to check out til 12. I went to get my bike out if the garage and saw the rear tyre was flat :( I asked the hotel if I could fix it in the garage. Good job I only have about 200 yards to do today! Turned the bike upside down, got the wheel off and then the tyre. It of a mystery as couldn't find what had caused the flat. Nothing in the tyre or tube. I pumped up the tube and couldn't find a leak. It was fine yesterday on the cycle, seemed rock hard. I don't think anyone would have tampered with it in a locked garage. Must have picked up a slow p****** yesterday I guess. As I was doing this, the heavens opened with hail and thunderstorms. Thank goodness I was undercover! I waited for it to stop then washed my hands in the hotel and walked the bike down to Hostal Rom. I put the bike in their garage round the corner and checked in. A better room than last year, the bed seems firmer. The woman on the desk is friendly and chatty. Supermarket again for lunch then I went to the bike shop when they opened at 4 and bought a new inner tube. Plus I got the guy to check my pressures. I'd got the rear one to 70 psi just with my excellent Lezyne hand pump - thank you Chaineys Cycles! So asked for 80 in both. I hope it holds up! Put bike back in the garage. In the evening I went back to the area the bike shop was in and got a take out from a Subway style place. I had it back at Hostal Rom so I could watch my weekly webinar.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 26
Got up early so I could be at breakfast by 8am. It's not as good as breakfast at the Hotel Ciutadella. Coffee was so-so and tastes like instant. So I was on the road by 9am and so far it was sunny and a slight tailwind blowing me west towards Figueres. I make really good progress and behind me there is a bank of dark cloud and it feels like I am trying to outrun the weather! At Figueres I take the N11 and head north to La Jonquera. I start to climb towards a gap in the hills and then the wind changes to a full ok headwind. La Jonquera is basically a knocking shop for lorry drivers and very sleazy. God knows why Bike Express are stopping there now! Then I get another puncture, this time in the front wheel! So pissed off and worried that the weather will catch me up. I find a sheltered area next to the road under some trees and fix the puncture. Take all the luggage off, turn it upside-down. I remove the tube and find a hole and feel inside the corresponding place in the tyre and find a thorn has penetrated! Not only that but I find a second one AND a piece of wire. Wtf? I hate this town, I blame the lorry drivers. Satisfied that there are no more foreign bodies I put a new inner tube and pump it up and all seems ok. Once back on the bike I pump it up good and hard. Still over 20 miles to go. I keep checking the pressure but it seems ok. I cross the border back in to France and then it's a nice descent. Make it to the Hotel Premiere Classe just south of perpignan and it's ok. Automated check in, and ground floor so wheel the bike in ok. It's quite a small room but has en suite and air conditioning so definitely a step up from an F1. There's a Buffalo Grill next door and they close at 3 so I pop over after showering. The only non meat item is fish and chips, so I choose that and it's great. I regret only having a small beer as quite thirsty. The drinks machine at the hotel is broken so I go to the one next door. €3 for a bottle of Coke! It starts to rain quite hard so I am pleased I made an early start and got that window of fine weather. It's noticeably cooler today. Even with the puncture I got here by 1.30. Evening meal was tricky. I didn't want to go to the Buffalo Grill again and it was raining hard again. There is a Campanile not far away, less than a km but still far enough to get soaked. Then I see there's a snack van across the road! Trouble is it's burgers only. So a dilemma, I don't want to fall off the waggon and eat meat but I don't have much choice. The choice is either n Iggy Pop or a Mick Jagger. I chose a Mick with fries plus beer and and a bottle of water, so that's sorted. The trouble here is there's nothing nearby, it's really for car drivers.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 27
Had a good night at the premiere classe, but a little trepidation about today's ride and the recent punctures. I had the all you can eat buffet breakfast and certainly got my money's worth - just as well as I would need the fuel later on! I messaged the property in Narbonne to let them know I would be a bit earlier, around 3. I got going before 10am and so far blue skies. I called in at Decathlon and got another inner tube, or chambre d'aire as they are called in France. Then navigated through perpignan which wasn't too bad. However the D900 out of Perpignan was verboten for bikes for the first 10 miles. Merde! I found an alternative route on service roads past a dog rescue place and a gypsy site. Then I met a local cyclist who was helpful but in the end Google guided me and got back on the D900 which was fine, but with the shoulder often poor quality I was reduced to cycling on a narrow strip of black just on the edge. Bit of a headwind then it sent me on the D709 coast road via Port La Nouvelle. This was great to start with, better surface and less traffic. I stopped for a bite to eat at an Aldi and then continued. But then it sent me on a bumpy canal towpath for about 10k! It was pretty bad and progress was slow but there were other bikes and even vehicles coming from the other direction which was encouraging. I was past the point of no return anyway. Then the surface began to improve and then finally and ironically probably the smoothest piece of tarmac I've ever cycled on all the way to Narbonne! I arrived at the accommodation and called the owner who arrived promptly. OMG what a place. A beautiful apartment, looks brand new. Definitely the best of the trip if not all my trips! Air conditioning, fridge, Wi Fi, chilled bottle of water in the fridge and REAL COFFEE! I shower and wash my clothes. Bike is in the courtyard but there is a locked gate and you can't see in from outside. I wander out and get some shopping from carrefour city for dinner. I walk back carrying a baguette just like a native!
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 28
Wow, month away. Rest day in Narbonne. This really is a fantastic apartment. I bought some stuff for breakfast yesterday and of course, proper coffee! I went down on the bike to check out the pick up point for tomorrow by Burger king. I hung around in case the bus showed up. Then two English touring cyclists appeared on a tandem. They'd got the day wrong and were a day early! Luckily their bnb was able to accommodate them another night. We chatted for quite a while and they had the Garmin I wanted to upgrade to so was interested in that. Their bnb lady met them and gave then back their room key. I then cycled back. In the afternoon I went to the Horreum - a Roman underground network of tunnels now made in to a museum. It was very interesting and cooler underground. I had a wander around Narbonne and saw the cathedral and the river. It's a lovely place and a good location to end the tour. It's very windy and promises to be even more so tomorrow, it's known as the windy city. Then I came back and returned to the supermarket for supplies for dinner and breakfast tomorrow.
Bayonne to Narbonne Day 29
The journey home. Checked out of the wonderful Hacienda apartments. The best place I stayed at on my trip hands down. It was a sunny day but very windy, luckily only a short cycle to the coach pick up and the wind was blowing my way. There were a lot of passengers waiting at the pick up including a couple of tandems. It was a relief to finally see the bike coach again after a month on the road. It was a long journey back as the coach first headed west to Bordeaux via Toulouse. It was an uneventful trip though and we were ahead of schedule at Calais and didn't have to wait long to board a ferry. I got dropped off at Newport Pagnell at just after 10am so was home early.
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