I chose the Hebrides again as I love it and really wanted to visit Mull, an island which feels like a second home. I've been going there since I was 12. My mother passed away earlier this year and my dad 13 years ago so it seemed especially poignant to go back again. My plan was to drive up to Oban and leave the car there. Unfortunately everywhere was booked up including my usual BnB that lets me keep my car there while I go off to the islands. So I heard about By The Way in Tyndrum - about an hour from Oban, just past Crianlarich. It's a campsite, hostel and they have camping barns and hobbit houses. The hobbit houses were fully booked so I chose a camping barn rather than just camping. This proved to be a good bet as there was a yellow weather warning for heavy rain.
Day 0 - Getting There
I had a really nice leisurely drive up to Scotland. I stopped at Penrith Go Outdoors to get some walking socks as mine were a bit worn. I made good time and took the Erskine Bridge to miss out Glasgow. As soon as I crossed the border they kept showing the weather warnings on the road signs! Not what you want to see as you are setting out on holiday! The camping barns were OK. Quite small but under cover and had power. My only complaint was that the bed was quite soft and you have to use your own sleeping bag/sheet. I went out to the Good Food Café which was only a short walk. This was the eating place I had stopped at many times before which has really good food and you can look out at bird feeders while you eat, lovely. I had fishcakes and chips which were excellent as was the local craft beer. During the night it rained heavily, one of the tents was waterlogged, glad I wasn't camping!
Day 1 Oban to Barra
A nice drive to Oban with plenty of time to spare. I had decided to go to the Outer Hebrides first for two reasons, Firstly, it was still peak tourist season and Mull would likely be heaving especially with the new cheap fares for vehicles. Secondly, the forecast was looking a bit more favourable further out. This proved to be correct on both accounts. The ferry to Barra doesn't leave til 1.30pm so plenty of time. I booked my car in to the secure parking at Hazelwood Motors. It was just over £50 for 10 days but worth it as I wouldn'y want to leave it in the street for that long. At the ferry terminal I met several other cyclists bound for Barra. Mark and Mumtaz, a couple from Yorkshire and Sean a guy from Nottingham also on his own. There was also a family with a little girl called Rhoda (my Mum's name) who were cycling the Hebridean Way and I would bump in to them several times. Barra is nearly 80 miles away so it's over 5 hours on the ferry. It's a nice route up the Sound of Mull and then out in to the open sea. Eventually Castlebay looms with the familiar sight of Kisimul Castle. Sean is also heading for the Scurrival campsite. We get some supplies from the Co-op and go halves on a bottle of wine. We go up the west side of the island as that avoids a big hill, past the Borve campsite which looks tiny and rather exposed. A woman walking her dog warns us of a flood due to the previous night's storms - even worse out here apparently. The road had been closed. Fortunately we were able to pass but you could see how the road had been flooded and there was a lot of debris. Then turned north past Barra Airport and still quite a long way up to the campsite. Angus remembered me from last year but alas no corncrakes at this time of year, or maybe that's a good thing as we are camping. We set up camp and cook over the camp fire and enjoy the wine. Sean is a good craic. He's heading north tomorrow but I decide to stay on another night.
Day 2 - Barra
It was a nice evening and the morning looked OK. I headed down to Barra Airport to watch the planes and have a coffee and cake. It's a great spot. By midday though the weather started to close in so I abandoned my plans to cycle around the island and headed back to the campsite and just got back before it poured. I spent the afternoon in the tent reading and sheltering from the rain. It rained pretty heavily all afternoon but began to ease off. I needed to get some food which meant another trip all the way back to the Co-Op. I went left at the fork and came across a hotel that was serving evening meals. I was very hungry by then so decided on this rather than go all the way to Castlebay. The fish and chips and clam chowder were excellent unfortunately the meal was ruined by a very badly behaved child. I headed back and just avoided the rain - again!
Day 3 Barra to South Uist
I got up early as a family had decided to set up uncomfortably close to my tent - why? Also the weather looked clear for now. This proved to be a good move as showers were rapidly moving in. I managed to pack everything up but the tent was still quite wet. I got the early ferry to Eriskay which left around 9.30. There was a couple from New Zealand on bikes. I was looking for a wild camp spot on Eriskay for the way back, as there was a shower at the ferry terminal. I couldn't really find anywhere suitable other than right next to the causeway which looked a bit exposed. I crossed the amazing causeway, had a coffee and cake stop at the Kilbride cafe and campsite and then pressed on to Howmore hostel. I got there by lunchtime. I mads sure I got provisions at the Co-op Daliburgh as there's nothing nearer and the next one north isn't until Benbecula. There was a good crowd in - Stanley from the Netherlands - I shared the middle smaller room with him. There were two older and rather tubby Scottish fellas in the room next door. They looked like workmen lol and at first I thought they were here to fix something but they were on holiday - travelling in a white van. They were decent fellas though and supplied some lager FOC. There was also Sarah who was a walker and was camping in a Terra Nova tent. She had flown in to Barra! The Gatliff hostels are primarily for walkers and cyclists. Then the family from Wellingborough with the Rhoda daughter turned up plus 2 Italian girls who left very early the next day.
Day 4 South Uist, Benbecula and North Uist
The forecast today was excellent. I decided to base myself at Howmore so I could explore without any luggage! I wanted to do a loop all the way around North Uist - plus getting there and back meant a total of over 75 miles! Fortunately the wind had dropped from yesterday. I made an early start and was on the road by 8am. I made good time. 10 miles or so to Benbecula, another Co-op - this one a superstore! Then briefly on to Grimsay which I explored last year and then North Uist. I then started the loop heading west. I hadn't been on this section before. It was a really beautiful cycle and I was soon past the point of no return where it made no sense to turn back. I passed the turning to Berneray then on to Lochmaddy before finally rejoining the road to South Uist. I was back by 5pm. What a superb day's cycling.
Day 5 South Uist to Barra
I had a rest day at Howmore to recover from the bike ride and also the weather had turned bad - rainy and really windy. Some brave soul was camping out! They had put their tent in a protected corner but even so I would avoid camping out in this at all costs. Fortunately it had improved the following day so I retraced my steps to Barra. It was against the wind going south until I got to the bit going east along the southern coast. I stopped at the Kilbride cafe again and did consider camping here but decided to press on and got the 4pm ferry from Eriskay back to Barra. The weather was ok but quite windy. I decided to try Croft 183 campsite as on the more sheltered east side of the island plus the Scurrival one is so far away from everywhere. It proved to be a great choice. At first Peter said he was full but when I said it was just me and a little tent he said OK. The first place was quite exposed to the wind so I asked if he had anywhere more sheltered so he let me camp in his front garden. It was a wonderful spot - sheltered, private with even a little 'table'. The kitchen and showers were great and there was even Wi Fi, all for £8 a night.
Day 6 Barra and Vatersay
Today I could do the bits I couldn't do on the way up because of the weather. Croft 183 is a much better base and only 4 miles from Castlebay, but there is a monster hill on this side of the island. At Castlebay I found a great little cafe that did a great fish and chips with salad plus Wi Fi. Once fuelled up I pressed on to Vatersay. I hadn't been back here since my wild camp of 2 years ago. I stopped at a house advertising bike hire for some GT85 as my bike was getting a bit squeaky! I'd forgotten what a tough cycle it was to Vatersay. It's quite far, a lot of climbing plus a strong headwind. It was quite a contrast to my previous visit. The little road was busy and I had to pull over a lot in to passing places. I saw the crashed plane wreck. When I reached Vatersay beach I was surprised to see the little community centre was now a cafe and there were new showers! There was also a tourist coach! I went as far as I could by bike, past my wild camp spot and then back with the wind all the way to the campsite. Another great day's cycling and I got my ferry ticket for Tiree the next day.
Day 7 Barra to Tiree
Cycled to Castlebay again for the afternoon sailing to Tiree. This ferry only goes once a week so can't afford to miss it! Another fab fish and chips to fill me up for the day. The ferry staff at the ticket office are quite sweary lol! The strange family from the campsite are also getting this ferry. It's a lovely smooth sail to Tiree and arrives just after 5. I had enquired about the hostel on Tiree as a back up in case the weather was bad, but the guy was trying to get my to pay up front! I found the perfect wild camp spot on Tiree. Less than a mile from the ferry, close to Co Op and even a public loos nearby. Out on the machair close to the sea but with nobody around it was perfect. A light breeze and no midges. I had a very pleasant evening and a good sleep all for a total cost of zero!
The next morning though what had happened to the public loo? What the fuck? Someone had had diarrhoea and shat all up the wall and totally missed the toilet! Disgusting. I blame the strange family as I think they were also using these loos. I hope the locals didn't think it was me! Unfortunately my time on Tiree was short and I only saw a tiny corner of the island. I would have longer on Coll though. The ferry left at 11am and the freaky family were on it again! It was only an hour to Coll and what a contrast. Whereas Tiree is more populated and flatter, Coll is quite wild, like a miniature Mull. I found the excellent Coll Hotel and enquired about the wild camping. It was on a hill up quite a rough and wet track. I eventually made it up there and set up camp. There was one other tent there plus some sheep. Still quiet breezy and no sign of midges so far! I had the afternoon to explore the island. I took the main road south which was pretty narrow and went as far south as I could, then turned around and headed north. I couldn't complete a loop though as it became a sandy track at the RSPB reserve. So I retraced my steps back to the camping. There is a brand new super duper community centre with showers but you only got 3 minutes for £1. The hotel however will let you use its showers for a £1 with no time limit if you have a meal there - bargain! I had a a very good evening meal there, I'm living on sea food on this trip and very good it is too. I retire to the campsite and all is well.
Day 9 Coll to Oban
In the morning the wind had dropped which meant one thing - Midge-ageddon! There was a massive swarm around my tent and they were after me. Despite covering up and having a midge net they still got me pretty bad. I made it out in one piece- just and waited by the ferry where I got my stove out and had breakfast and coffee. It was still very midgy and quite a few ended up in my food and drink! The ferry to Oban was about 3 hours. It was the best ferry yet! First of all there were great views of the Treshnish Isles and the Dutchman's Cap. Then a large group of Dolphins off the north coast of Mull came by the boat a couple rode the bow waves! Amazing. Then I got good views of Tobermory. What a relief to arrive back in Oban and pick up the car! I had managed to book a well needed stay in a B and B in Oban at Don Muir - I hadn't stayed here before. It was lovely. Really nice people, chattering budgies and luxury! I walked in to town. Sadly the Light of India restaurant had closed down so I went another one nearby that was very good but not licensed so had to go to Tesco to get some wine for the meal!
Day 10 Mull
On to the second phase of the trip and to Mull with my car. I had managed to prebook which was just as well as the Saturday ferries are popular. It was a lovely day again. I decided to make the most of the day as the forecast for tomorrow wasn't looking so good. I checked in to the campsite in Craignure near the ferry which was very good and an Astroturf pitch! I found a sheltered one near the reception. I wanted to the central circuit of Mull - 50 miles of spectacular scenery. I had done the northern loop back in 2010. I headed north up to Salen on the busiest stretch of road - all dual lane. The wind was with me. Then in Salen I took the little road that crosses Mull at its narrowest point. I stopped at the little petrol station for some snacks and a chat. Then reached Loch Na Keal and the little Knock bridge that had been previously closed. Past the dramatic mountains of central Mull including Ben More and then the cliffs at Gribun. This part of Mull is wild and spectacular. Also lot of climbing and a humungous headwind. Mull is certainly a lot more imposing and dramatic after the relatively low lying Outer Hebrides. Eventually I made it Loch Scridain and had views of the Ross of Mull and then headed back east to Craignure. The wind was now with me but there is another huge climb through Glen More which you don't really appreciate by car. I decided to make the 4 mile detour to Duart Castle (still covered in scaffolding). Then back to the campsite. I had a couple of drinks in the Craignure Inn. The barman had a eyebrow piercing that had gone septic and looked like he had been in the ring with Mike Tyson! There was a wedding function and band playing nearby but it didn't bother me.
Day 11 Mull to Home
It was raining heavily in the morning. So glad to have the car again! I drove to Tobermory and it only got harder. I went to the excellent Mull Aquarium where they keep everything for a maximum of a month before releasing it again. The blonde guide was very informative.There was a lively little curled octopus that was trying to escape! They only keep them for a week as they are highly intelligent and get bored easily. I went for a coffee and checked the forecast, not looking good all week. I drove on to Dervaig and saw the Glenhouses where we first went on holiday in 1980! They are still the same but have had a new lick of green paint and are still holiday cottages. Still raining I returned via Glen Forsa. As the weather was looking so rubbish I decided reluctantly to head home tomorrow and bought my ferry ticket.I was a bit sad as wanted to do so much on Mull but know when the weather closes in there's not much point, especially if you are camping. By the evening with the weather deteriorating and now hemmed in by camper vans I decided to pack up and go! So much easier when you can just sling everything including your wet tent in to the car and just made it to the ferry on time. Luckily you can transfer your booking if there is space. I arrived in Oban after 7 and then had the long drive home. I didn't get in til 4am! It was a fantastic trip, possibly the best Hebridean trip so far despite the weather. Next year I will definitely need to come earlier in the season - when the weather is better, less midges and tourists! I was feeling a bit sad as there was so much I still wanted to do on Mull, so I booked a week's stay in a cottage in Tobermory for my big birthday next April. Fingers crossed for decent weather!
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