I've left this a bit late! I'm off on my 3rd fully loaded cycle tour. I did Land's End to John o'Groats in 2012 and Dover to Cape Wrath a year later, but fully supported in a group. I'd got the bug, but I wanted to do it all on my own and self-supported carrying all my own gear. So in 2014 I set off for a mini-tour of Spain, starting at Roses in Catalonia, close to the French border. I cycled down the coast as far as Alicante. This really whetted my appetite. I followed this with a Round Ireland tour the same year. I got the ferry to Rosslare, then cycled around Ireland the long way round, including Mizen Head to Malin Head and then crossed to Northern Ireland and finished in Belfast. A fantastic journey.
This year I wanted to do Spain again but do a much bigger trip. So I'm starting in Roses again (it's the drop off point for Bike Express). But I'm going to head all the way down the coast to Gibraltar, heading inland to Granada on the way, then I'm going to cycle all the way home again through the interior of Spain to the north coast and then cycling up the Atlantic coast of France and finally cutting across to Calais and home! Altogether that's about 2,500 miles of cycling.
I've got all I need, camping gear, panniers all ready. My only extras for this year are a camping stove and pot so I can be a bit more self-sufficient, a neat little Topeak handlebar bag, and also a Caxton FM currency card which will be a cheap and convenient way to get Euros.
GPS location
I'll be using Greenalp to check my progress.You can find my location here: http://www.greenalp.com/RealtimeTracker/index.php?viewuser=robingrimmer&fs=1
I've also added it as a button on the right of my blog.
I've also added it as a button on the right of my blog.
2 days to go
Just been out for a quick spin on the touring bike. Saw a stoat crossing the busy A507 and he managed to dodge the traffic! I hope that's a good omen :-)
1 day to go
Just doing last minute packing. The forecast is looking great for Spain, and it only gets hotter further south :-)
Journey starts here
http://www.greenalp.com/RealtimeTracker/index.php?viewuser=robingrimmer&fs=1
Waiting for the bike coach.
Getting to the start
I've used Bike Express to get to the start. (www.bike-express.co.uk) It's the only coach service from the UK that will take you and your bike to Europe. Roses, just over the French border in Spain is as far as they go, so that's where I've chosen to start my journey. They pick up from various services along the M1 which is handy for me as I'm not far from it. 27 hours on a coach is not the most fun, especially with traffic jams in Paris and an accident just 5km from the destination. In addition I had a slightly dodgy tummy which I'm blaming on the coach's home made coleslaw! However, when you arrive to this - things are looking up ☺ :
Day 1. Ended up on the motorway again!
And we're off. 2500 miles to go.
The first day was a tough one. 60 miles and a constant headwind, and quite a few hills around Girona.
I followed the N road from Figures (home of the fabulous Dali museum) south to Girona. N roads are nice to cycle on as they have a wide shoulder. However, there's a 10 mile section which is Autovia and is illegal to cycle on. The only alternative would have added miles on with tricky navigation so I chanced it. Fortunately for me it was a Sunday afternoon and the Guardia Civil were having a siesta! So I kept calm and cycled on to Lloret del Mar which is a bit of a toilet but found a quiet campsite.
Day 2 - much easier!
As some of you may know, I've had more than my fair share of knee problems. I had to have another op and steroid injection in my troublesome knee, so there was some trepidation in setting off. Yesterday it was a bit achey after along cycle in to a headwind, and with panniers they act like sails, so much harder! Fortunately the wind was behind me today - hurrah! And just a 35 mile cycle down the coast to a lovely campsite just outside Barcelona. There are parakeets in the trees.
Food poisoning, flat tyres and Gale force winds
Had a very rough last few days. Started with bottom bracket problems just south of Barcelona, then immediately followed by 2 punctures. Then the following day more bottom bracket problems and the pedal fell off! Now rectified. But then Gale force winds at the campsite forced me to take cover in the laundry room. And if things couldn't get any worse I've come down with food poisoning! So resting up a few days. Think I'm getting better, eaten for the first time in 48 hours. Normal service will be resumed shortly!
Returning Home
I've had a pretty bad case of food poisoning which has laid me up for a week, but since seeing a second doctor who has started me on some antibiotics, I finally seem to be getting better and am eating again. Having hardly eaten for the past week has left me a bit weak pardon the pun and very behind schedule, so I have decided to abandon the trip and come home to recuperate. But once better I will be back!
Returning to Spain to continue my journey
Now fully recovered, so am going back to Spain on 13th June to continue my cycling adventure where I left off! Also I've fixed the bike and got some new tyres.
I'm back! Day 5 Reus Airport to Vinaros. 68 miles
Finally after 3 weeks I am back in Spain to resume my trip! I used the time to recover, fix my bike and also get my fitness back. New tyres, fixed bottom bracket and tweaked the gears and she's like new! I wanted to continue where I left off. So I hired a car to get me back there, but had to return it to Reus airport, which was actually another 20 miles on top. It felt good to go through L'hospitalet again, which was where I got ill and had to abandon trip. It's a nice little town and I stopped for coffee and ice cream. Mostly along the N 340 today , which is busy in some sections but has a shoulder to cycle on. It was very stormy in the night and rained heavily. Thunderstorms were predicted today so I had my rain mac at the ready. Fortunately it stayed sunny and warm but tough going with a constant headwind. But the bike was great and I felt great. 68 miles. Finally out of catalonia! Nothing against it but it felt like I was never going to leave!
Day 6: Vinaros to Castellon. 50 miles
Another good day. Easy navigation today as just had to follow the N 340 all the way. Was a bit slow leaving today as up a bit late and I needed to fiddle with the gears. All shipshape. No brekkie at this hotel but luckily a McDonald's just up the road. Refuelled it was time to press on. Not a huge amount to see today, but saw a hoopoe and a large white bird of prey. Every petrol station attendant today was very chatty and interested in my journey. My Spanish is really coming along. Rolled in to Castellon at about 5pm. It's a lovely little city. I came here last year and stayed at the NH Mindoro. A great hotel and not too expensive if you prebook which I did on trivago. They didn't bat an eyelid when I carried my bike up to my room. I can't see many UK 4 star hotels letting you do this! Making the most of it as it's back to the camping tomorrow!
Day 7. Castellon to El Saler. 55 miles, first puncture.
Great start to the day with a cracking breakfast at the wonderful NH Mindoro Hotel in Castellon. Had to wait 10 minutes for a McDonald's to open at 1030 just to use their toilet! I know you like a lie in Spain but not opening til 1030!? Had lunch in Sagunt. Got to love the menu del dia. Plain sailing til Valencia. Ended up on the motorway briefly then through the suburbs. Got a puncture in my new Marathon tyres. Frustrating as just 5 miles to my destination. But at least it was a front wheel for a change. Found the culprit, a small but very sharp piece of wire. Camping for 2 nights and having a rest day tomorrow so I can get some washing done and chill out by the pool. Prince Charles would have a field day in Valencia!
Rest day
Day 8. El Saler to Deveses.
The campsite at El Saler was pretty good with a nice pool, and it is in the Parc Albufuera which is a scenic wetlands area but that does make it a haven for mosquitoes and they were bad! Especially at dawn and dusk, had to make a mad dash to get inside the safety of the tent! Some noisy arrivals late on Friday evening, so I relocated my tent to a quiet area. The advantage of having a mobile home! 46 miles down the coast, first campsite which had a good review was very busy and reception were having a siesta so I went to Los Patos down the road which was perfect. Very quiet and peaceful and I was the only tent
Day 9. Deveses to St Joan de Alacant. 59 miles.
Bit of a late start today and faffing about meant I didn't get started til after 11. Then a brunch stop - hard to find in Spain on a Sunday so had to make do with Burger King. A long climb up to Benissa then descent down to Altea, past Benidorm to Alicante. Very hard work today due to the heat. Serves me right for leaving it late and travelling in the hottest part of the day. After 3 nights under canvas I thought it was time for a hotel and struck gold with the wonderful Hotel Torre Sant Joan just outside Alicante. In a very quiet area, very plush with lovely gardens. I cycled from Roses to Alicante last summer, so from here on it's all new territory!
Day 10. St Joan de Alacant to Los Alcazares. 58 miles. One puncture.
Had a rest day at the superb Hotel Torre in St Joan de Alacant. Such a lovely hotel with wonderful gardens in a quiet residential area. Somehow my bike managed to get a puncture by just standing outside! No sign of sabotage so I can only put it down to the heat. After a top breakfast it's time to leave but first I have to find a bike shop to stock up on inner tubes. They were all shut due to some festival, but finally after the 5th attempt I find one open. Heading south on the nacional, stop for an amazing photo opportunity of some flamingos and an avocet. Later I come across another touring cyclist who has broken down so I stop to help. He's completely knackered the threads on his bolts holding the front rack and while I'm waiting I get another puncture! It's getting late now and my new companion is getting on my nerves and wants to tag along. He keeps stopping all the time so it's hasta la vista baby and I leave him for dust. The headwind has suddenly become a tailwind and I'm flying. Found the Hotel Los Narejos in Los Alcazares and it's muy barato. Plus bike in the room no problem!
Day 11. Los Alcazares to Aguilas. 63 miles. One monster hill.
Good night at the Hotel Los Narejos in Los Alcazares. Breakfast was last night's leftovers then went down to the hotel bar for a coffee and orange juice which cost the same as a breakfast with coffee and orange juice, oh well. Good start, quiet roads and a tailwind. Was in Cartagena in no time. Who's that in the distance, it's my buddy from yesterday. He hasn't seen me so I try a short cut but it's no good, he must have taken the same route as he's still in front of me. It's a lonely desert road out of town, there's no hiding place so I catch up and say hi. A nice quiet road over a hill then it's a long drop to Mazarron. I hit 48mph! Stop for lunch and my friend whips out some pork chops from his panniers! They'll cook themselves in these temperatures. It's still a fair way to Aguilas and we meet another touring cyclist from Belgium who's pulling a trailer. Apparently he's had his passport and money stolen. I spot a short cut. The belgian wisely carries on, but my friend follows me. The short cut turns out to be a monster hill and I think he's regretting following me. Managed to lose him again then it's a long downhill again to the coast. The campsite is closed but the guy says I can stay there one night. The showers are working and I'm tempted but there's nowhere to eat except a really expensive restaurant so I abandon this idea and head in to town. I spot a reasonable looking hotel in aguilas a bit more than last night but not too bad. Huge bath but dodgy air conditioning. Then I see it's bottom on Trip Advisor. Remarkably my cycling buddy has found me again. How did he do that, I'm beginning to wonder if he has placed a tracking device on me. Only one restaurant I can find so it's Hobsons choice. Wasn't great, the garlic soup was ok and the pineapple too. Hope I don't get a dodgy tummy again!
Day 12. Aguilas to Garrucha. 26 miles.
My new friend shows up at the hotel at 9 and we're off. It's a good start with a tailwind and pretty soon I've lost him. A quiet coastal road with stunning views. Then a cyclist approaches me on the left and he's a Scottish and ex pat. Seems a nice guy and we stop for lunch and he gives me some useful tips on the area. Turns out to be quite a long lunch, he offers to let me stay at his flat but I politely decline but by now it's getting a bit late to get to the next town so decide to stay here for the night. Early start needed for tomorrow to make up some miles. Have crossed in to Andalucia, Spain ' s largest autonomous region. Will be heading away from the coast and inland next.
Day 13 Garrucha to Tabernas.
Early start paid off as it's cooler. I now leave the coast and head inland for the first time, which means a climb of around 500m. It's not too bad, quite gradual. Stop for breakfast in Sorbas, Tostadas and freshly squeezed orange juice. Book a lovely hotel in Tabernas for only 18 quid! The road levels out after this, dead straight through the desert and then a descent into Tabernas. Arrive at 1.30 so take a siesta.
Day 14. Tabernas to Almocita. 40 miles.
As the heat is building and a lot of climbing, my mileage is dropping. Nice start to the morning but losing a lot of the elevation I gained at Tabernas. Once on the Albujarras road I climb again steadily up to 800m. I'm getting through lots of fluids and after 40 miles at 2pm I'm done and almost out of water. I stop at the next village Almocita but the restaurant is closed. There is a sign for a campsite 2km away so I decide to follow it and fill my water up at the village fountains. I find a brand new campsite that's only been open a month in the middle of nowhere! The guy is really friendly and helpful and speaks Spanish clearly. He even lets me use one of the big family tents. There's a restaurant on site serving great food. Jump in the shower and wash my clothes and hang them out and they are bone dry in no time at all. I think I'm the only guest here! Must get up early to get some miles in while before it gets roasting.
Day 15. Almocita to Lanjaron. 57 miles.
Big day today. Did 57 miles in 40 plus degrees heat with 1.6km of climbing! Got a fairly early start and stopped for breakfast in the nearby town of Fondon which amazingly was open on a Sunday morning. Pushed on, getting low on water but can see there's a town coming up soon with a petrol station. What I don't know is there is a monster of a hill in the way. Up to 1km altitude. The town is a welcome sight and stop for a nice lunch of calamari. A big drop to the valley floor, but then it's a climb up all the way. Pleased to get to Lanjaron as it's near the end of the Albujarras and quite a big place with lots of hotels. Hotel Central is ok, a bit old fashioned. The couple running it are very old bless them but friendly. Takes 3 rooms to find one with air conditioning that works, bike in the room. Dry my clothes on the rooftop. Go out for food. Feel like a pizza so go to the pizzeria next door. Good food but terrible service, so go elsewhere for an ice cream.
Day 16. Lanjaron to Alhama de Granada. 48 miles.
Bit of a slow start. Difficult to find breakfast. It's ok but service is a bit slow. Finally head off and the first bit to the N road is all downhill. Then pick up the N road north to Granada. Climbing all the way but a tailwind. Get to within 10k of Granada and get a good view of the city but forget to take a photo. Then turn left to Alhama. Find a nice place for lunch, good sandwich and air con. The landscape is changing, quite arable now. Also hit headwind/crosswind. Makes cycling quite difficult at first as I'm being blown all over the place. Eventually improves and make it to the small town of Venta. Fill up on water and I have a choice of sticking to the main road or taking a short cut of 2k on minor roads. I go for the short cut, it's only about 20k or so. Good road surface and quiet. But boy what a climb! Go from 800m to 1km, then drop down to 600m only to have to climb back up to 1k again. The hill seems to go on forever and I'm nearly out of water. I'm not far from Alhama and eventually it's downhill all the way, except the last bit. I'm now completely out of water. I find the petrol station and drink 3 cans of Coke! And refill my water bottles. It's incredible how much fluids you get through in these conditions. Check in at the Hostal Ana and it's great. Nice and modern and big rooms. She wants me to put the bike in the estate agent next door! But I want an early start so I ask if I can put the bike in the room and she says fine ☺ My Spanish is getting pretty good now.
Day 17. Alhama de Granada to Antequera. 48 miles.
Almost all of today's mileage was on smaller roads with hardly any traffic. One of the best hotels so far at alhama meant a good night's rest. Found an excellent brekkie place frequented by lots of locals, always a good sign. A communication error meant I had 2 double Tostadas! Oh well, this will keep me going. A very steep climb out of Alhama on an unclassified road but fairly straight and in to Zaforrhya (sp?) for a break then up the valley to over 1km again and then down a lovely minor road to Vilanova for lunch on the square. A group of English on the next table but I stuck to Spanish so I didn't have to speak to them. Another climb up to Arachidona, then back in to the wind for the last 20k to Antequera. A very minor road - almost miss the turn avoids the motorway - then the main road in to Antequera. I pass a McDonald's and don't stop! There are hotels close by but I've prebooked in the centre so am obliged to carry on. Eventually find the hotel up a side street. It's not the ritz , but for 20€ per night you can't complain. Air con is working, bathroom ok even has a tiny bath. Have to lug my bike up to the top floor but I don't mind. Always happier if it's in the room. Quick bite at Burger King followed by un heladeria.
Day 18. Antequera to Ronda. 56 miles.
A day of two halves. The first half fairly flat on long straight roads - miles flew by. Then a long gradual climb up to Ronda with a headwind was very hard work! Hotel Reyes in Antequera is a bit of a dump, only 20€, but a good incentive to get up early and get on the road. Place next door doing breakfast so was able to get going before 9. Makes a huge difference, those first couple of hours are noticeably cooler. Heading nw out of town there's a chance of a slight short cut but based on previous experience I decide to stick to the main road which turned out to be a good decision. Nice smooth straight roads, fairly flat and not much wind. Have to make a slight diversion to find a petrol station as there's not much ahead. Was going to stop for an early lunch but the waitress was rude so I didn't. Could have kicked myself for not topping up water though. Here on it gets tough. I knew I'd have some climbing to do, but it's a relentless gradual climb with a headwind but it's still unbearably hot and the flies are annoying. I'm getting low on water but at Cueves a petrol station appears! Just as well because after that the gradient gets considerably harder and the last 20k to Ronda are a slog.
But worth it as Ronda is an incredible town and the hotel is brilliant. Amazing deal, even cheaper than last night but with breakfast but it's a really good quality place with large rooms, a proper bath. After 9 days of continuous riding it's time for a rest day! I have a wander around Ronda and it's amazing. The town is divided by a huge gorge which is straddled by a bridge. Lots to see and do.
Rest day in Ronda.
What a superb location for a rest day and a marvellous hotel in a quiet area. Breakfast is a simple affair but good coffee, juice and self serve Tostadas and cereal. Incredible value at less than 20€ a night. I find the roof terrace is open and there's loads of washing lines so wash my stuff by hand and hang it out. Then off in to town. First stop the bridge but to go in to the paid bit is 10€ which is a bit steep so give it a miss. So go to the museum Lara which I saw yesterday. Only €2 and very interesting and varied. Clocks, telephones and telegraphs and other random stuff on the top floor, and Spanish inquisition and torture chamber in the basement. One device was apparently used up until Franco's death in 1975! Then went to the Arabic baths in the old town in the afternoon. Lots of steps down on the cobbles, which were a bit slippery in my crocs. They're getting a bit worn now. Definitely feel like I've recharged my batteries.
Day 19. Ronda to La linea. 62 miles.
I foolishly thought today would be an easy cycle. Ronda at 750m, Gibraltar at sea level. Just a gentle freewheel? But oh no, it starts with a climb to over 1km and then it's up and down til eventually I descend. I did get to ride over the Punto Nuevo in Ronda though which was great. Stop for lunch in Gaucin. Bump into an English couple at the supermarket, very chatty and gives me some tips on how to get to Seville. Then after lunch it's a great downhill for 5 miles then levels out and gets very hot again but for once I am grateful for the headwind. I meet a local cyclist at a petrol station and ask him about getting to Seville. He says you can follow the motorway via Jerez but I'm not so sure. I go past a big oil refinery and then get my first glimpse of Gibraltar!
I find my hotel which as I suspected is a bit of a dump, but then so is la linea generally. The guy says I can leave my bike in reception but no way, it's coming in the room! He shrugs his shoulders and thinks crazy English person, it's on the 3rd floor. Fast food tonight as don't really want to hang around much in this town. Close to the border though.
Rest day in Gibraltar. 23 miles.
Cycled down to the border with no luggage. Bliss! No waiting involved but needed to show passport. Across the runway and in to Gibraltar! English language, red phone boxes and post boxes, bobbies and fish and chips. Cycled south to Europa Point. Unfortunately a bit hazy so couldn't really see Africa. Carried on round the rock through a tunnel and in no time back where I started. So went round a second time but this time went left at the rock hotel up very steep roads on to the rock itself. Went to St Michaels cave for some refreshments, very expensive. Then went down to the ape area, nothing at first then a couple appeared playing on the netting but disappointed as I didn't have any food. Then back down to the town, another lap of gib and it's still only 3pm! So decide to head back to delightful La linea.
Day 20. La linea to Arcos de la frontera. 66 miles.
La linea isn't very nice and neither is this hotel, so a good incentive to get up early and leave! As I left a Danish biker was also getting ready to leave, but going to Valencia, a bit further than me! The route to Seville is a bit tricky from here. The most direct way is to cut through the mountains. A longer way round is to go via Jerez, but again you have to go parallel to a motorway and I know from experience that can be tricky as the service road often peters out. A quick look on Google maps confirms this. So I decide to go via the mountains. There is a 30 mile stretch that looks pretty empty so I stock up with 2 extra water bottles. I came close to running out twice previously and don't want to repeat it! I The first stage is retracing my steps to Jimena de la frontera, about 30 miles of flat. There's a lot of cyclists about as it's Sunday morning. I'm making good time and this but flies by. Then I find a good petrol station in Los Angeles where I stock up with food and water. A nice brunch of fresh hot bread and cheese. A fat boy selling lottery tickets says that the mountain route is hard, but what does he know? I take the minor road and the next place of any size is Algar, which is a good 30 miles. It's a wonderful quiet road through lush green trees which provide plenty of shade. I meet very few other vehicles. There is some climbing but the max only 500m so not too bad. It turns out to be one of the best days cycling. Navigation is easy and a little restaurant appears which wasn't on the map and is an oasis. 2 cans of Coke hardly touch the sides. Refill on water and some snacks and I'm good to go. As I reach Algar there are some blue green lakes. As I head in to the afternoon the heat cranks up and I think it's the hottest I've been. Not long to Arcos. A large insect hits me as I'm going downhill and then I get a sharp burning pain down my left side. I realise I've been stung and stop and hurriedly remove my top thinking the beast is down my top but nothing. I don't see my assailant but it blooming hurts! I reach the hotel. Very quiet but girl on desk says no to bike in the room. She explains where to put it but I don't understand and then she disappears. I can't see anywhere secure so quickly smuggle it into the room! It's a good room and only 17 quid including breakfast. The restaurant is closed though so have to walk about a km to the lake for dinner. Wake up in the night as the air con is too cold!
Day 21. Arcos de la frontera to Seville. 55 miles.
Breakfast wasn't really worth waiting for and means I'm a bit later leaving. They don't say anything as I carry my bike out down the stairs! Leave around 9 and it's a pleasant start. Some hills but nothing too bad and smaller roads to start with. Then hit the N IV which is flat and boring but make good progress and clock up the miles. Quite a busy road and some debris on the shoulder. Stop in Dos Hermanas for lunch and reach Seville by 4. The heat is really building but as it's flat and I can do a decent speed it's not too bad. It's the hills that are a killer in the heat. Find the hotel and it seems pretty decent and the bike goes in a locked luggage room so secure. Quite a small room but good quality and a decent bath! Go out for a wander in the evening and it's still baking. See a busker playing Pink Floyd songs. Want a pizza but unfortunately pick the worst pizzeria in Seville! My 4 seasons comes out very quickly so it's not been freshly cooked. 10.30 pm and it's still 35 C, mad! Many cafes have jets of water droplets to cool you down, how civilised. I retreat to my air conditioned room at the Hotel Goya.
Rest day in Seville.
A good sleep but there are no windows in the room so I feel a bit disorientated. Nip over to the café across the road for the standard breakfast of Tostadas with tomato. I want to go on a city tour as I'm only here for a day and go on Feel the City free tour which is number 1 on Trip Advisor. It meets at 10.30 and splits in to French, Spanish and English speaking groups. It's not too hot at this time of the morning but it soon heats up as we walk. A nice relaxed tour of the cities sights ending at the beautiful Plaza de Espana. Of course it's not really free as you are asked for a tip at the end. But it's a great tour and thoroughly worth it. Back to the café for some filling tapas and a quick siesta.
Day 22. Seville to Monasterio. 56 miles.
Away fairly early from Seville. Navigating my way out a kindly cycle commuter showed me the right direction for the N 630 northbound. I'm going to be on this road for a long way! It runs parallel to the motorway so was empty of traffic. A gradual climb to 500m but it didn't feel like hard work or maybe I'm just getting fitter! Starting to feel like real wilderness now. Lots of cyclists to begin with. Another friendly chap asks me about my ride and gives me a cereal bar. Stop for a late lunch and the heat is really beginning to build. There is a campsite but I don't really want to camp in this heat so stumble upon a motorway service type hotel that is surprisingly good and has a great self serve restaurant with a menu at only €8.50.
Day 23. Monasterio to Villafranca de Los Barros. 40 miles.
Got going about 9am. Climb from 500m to Monasterio at 700m and then reach the plain, which is fairly flat. Get a tailwind here so some fast riding and the miles soon mount up. Looking at places to stay, there's Merida at about 66 miles but all looks quite pricey. There's a hotel at 40 miles with a pool. It's only 1.30 pm but it's too good to resist so decide to stay and have a much needed relax and swim. Haven't had a pool since Alicante! Decent room and fairly cheap with a good restaurant on site. Also did my washing in the shower and hung it out and it was bone dry in no time at all. Walls are pretty thin! Early start needed tomorrow so I can make up some of the miles I didn't do today.
Day 24. Villafranca de Los Barros to Caceres. 75 miles.
A great early start. Up and on the road by 7.30 am as I knew I had a lot of miles to cover. But 3 things went wrong. Firstly, yesterday's tailwind was now a headwind. Secondly, the petrol station up the road that looked so promising for breakfast had no bread and no coffee, so had some donuts. And lastly my mp3 player died which was a disaster. But, it miraculously came back to life, the headwind eventually became a tailwind and a McDonald's at 30 miles and still only 10.30 so still time for breakfast! Really clocked up the miles today. Mostly empty stretches of plains but Merida and Caceres surprisingly big. And there's a McDonald's in Caceres as well so that's dinner sorted. But massive queues earlier so gave up. Definitely cooler today so decided to camp. The campsite here is pretty cool, each individual plot has a private lockable bathroom with a power point, so can keep your stuff in here securely. Good to get the tent out again
, ground rock hard though.
, ground rock hard though.
Day 25. Caceres to Jarilla. 63 days.
Not a bad sleep at the campsite. All noise died down pretty quickly and although hot and stuffy to begin, by the morning I had got in to the sleeping bag. There was a line of ants in front of my tent, but fortunately they were going left to right and had no interest in going in my tent. Had brekkie at the campsite, but extortionate but he undercharged me so I kept schtum. On the road by 8.45, another good start. After 20 miles the road drops down to some pretty lakes. A new bridge construction is underway. Then inevitably it's a long slog back up again. Many birds of prey as usual but this time some red kites to make me feel at home. Eventually hit Plasencia, another fairly substantial town. Then find tonight's Hostal Asturias in the middle of nowhere. They are expecting me, am I the only guest?! Bike goes in locked garage. Decent room, good Wi Fi for skyping and excellent air con. Relax for a while then have an excellent dinner in the restaurant consisting of the usual gazpacho but a freshly cooked hamburger, the meat was amazing.
Day 26. Jarilla to Salamanca. 70 miles.
Up at 730 for breakfast and already it's pretty hot outside. On the road by 830. The morning is climbing all the way, some steep sections to a peak of 1200m! Met a local cyclist, quite an old man but you could tell he was fit. It was a classic case of tortoise and the hare. I kept passing him but kept stopping only to see him pass me again. He told me I had to quite a climb. He wasn't kidding! Passed a couple of touring cyclists but they didn't want to stop for a chat. Traffic was being diverted off the motorway on to the N road so there must have been an accident. Once I made it to the summit it was a nice downhill and then flat plains again with a slight tailwind. Stopped for lunch at a motorway services. Heat building through the afternoon, glad I've got the hills out of the way. Pass a succession of pylons with huge stork's nests on them! The last 10 miles are a grind as always. By now it's a headwind which at least helps keep me cool. I see he city of Salamanca laid out before me. I find the hotel and it's great. On a main road a little way from the centre. No questions asked re bike so I take it up to the room. Air conditioning is great, the bathroom is massive with a full sized whirlpool bath! Head out to the Plaza Mayor which is incredible and packed. I'm glad though that I'm not staying near here. McDonald's then back to the hotel to Skype.
Rest day in Salamanca.
Relaxing day. Getting a bit of a saddle sore so bum gets a much needed rest. Went to a chemist and asked for an antibiotic cream for saddle sores but she didn't understand. I checked on Google translate and it was right, she obviously isn't a cyclist so I pointed to my bum and then she understood. She gave me an antibiotic steroid cream. Then I did some much needed bike maintenance. Pumped up the tyres. Cleaned the drive train and cassette front and rear then reoiled. Also gave a bit of a clean. Checked the gear indexing, seems ok so didn't fiddle. Booked accommodation in Miranda de Douro, Portugal! 60 miles from Salamanca. I then looked at the route home in detail. The bit from here to France looks complicated but I think I've found a route from Zamora that goes slightly north of Valladolid, then Burgos, then in to the Basque country via Vittoria and on to San Sebastián. Then it's a short hop m to the border and once in France it's straight up. It's 535km to San Sebastián, then 700km to St malo. I reckon I can average 100k a day so hope to get home in 2 weeks-ish, which would be great. Fingers crossed! Have a wander in the afternoon, have some tapas in the Plaza Mayor and have a quick look at the cathedral and university. It's hot and I'm tired so go back for a siesta.
Day 27. Salamanca to Miranda de Douro, Portugal. 61 miles.
Left the excellent Hotel Reyes Catalico in Salamanca, one of the best hotels of the trip. An easy route out of Salamanca and it's on to very quiet roads with hardly any traffic and gentle undulating hills for the majority of the ride. I reach Ledesma in no time at all and then head due north. This road is even quieter and there are vast open straight stretches. I see a hoopoe and and a great grey shrike! I stop for lunch in a friendly little pueblo, bread and cheese from a supermarket and press on. It's getting hotter as I approach Portugal. Then take a left at the crossroads. As I approach the Portuguese border there's a huge gorge and I drop 250m. The heat down here is excessive and I'm nearly out of water again! Miranda de Douro is only up the hill but it's a long hill and no shade. With relief I find the hotel and a drinks machine. 2 cans of Coke don't touch the sides! My room is very nice and spacious as is the bathroom but there's no air conditioning, only a fan. But bizarrely there is air conditioning in the hallway, Wtf? Still it's a fairly cool room and the fan is good. Wash my gear by hand and it should dry quickly on the balcony.
Day 28. Miranda de Douro to Villalpando. 69 miles.
Bit of a nightmare today, read on! Day started at 6am with hotel owner banging on my door. I knew why. My bike was no longer downstairs because I'd put it in the room. I should have told him really. He must have panicked when he saw it was gone. But then if he'd only just noticed, goes to show I was justified in bringing to room! Breakfast ws ok but fairly simple. On the road by 830, but that's Portuguese time so 930. Down in to the gorge and then a long climb up, but much better in the cool morning. The road was very quiet and not many towns so had to pull in somewhere to find water. Had another river to descend to and then climb again . Meeting up with the N road there's signs saying no bikes, tractors etc. Wtf? It's not an Autovia. Sod it I go on it anyway and get beeped. I think it's just the bridge your not allowed on. The alternative is a drop down to the much lower bridge in the valley. I don't fancy that. I press on and soon see a tractor and a bike so must be ok. Then blam! A puncture. It's my first since after Alicante. A ruddy great nail has gone in the back tyre. It's midday, I'm on the hard shoulder and there's no shade. I quickly remove all the luggage, turn it upside down and change the tube. I'm getting pretty quick at this. You don't need to release the brake this way either if the tyre is already flat. The tyre seems ok. I'm off again and it's not far to Zamora. Luckily there's a bike shop so I get two inner tubes. It's lunchtime and there happens to be a McDonald's! Then for the afternoon I still have over 30 miles to go. It's getting extremely hot again - there's a heatwave warning. But at least it's flat and no wind. I pass through a succession of ghost towns with nothing open until I arrive at Villalpando. The hostal I've prebooked is dire, the worst place of the trip. It's flyblown and even the flies are dying. No air con and not even a fan. It's very noisy outside. I can't stay here, should have listened to all those bad reviews! Looked for alternatives. There's an expensive place at €59 that's nothing special and another hostal for €25 which is great. Comfortable room, air con, and a great restaurant. My mind's made up so I go back to Hostal Master to check out. I have to pay the €20 but I don't care. He seems a bit offended that I don't like it. Hostal Athlanta is like paradise in comparison. I have the set menu for €9 and it's vert good. Noodle soup, chicken and chips, custard and a biscuit plus a beer. The scenery has been pretty drab and for the first day I haven't taken any photos.
Day 29. Villalpando to Carrion de Los Condes. 59 miles.
The hostal at Villalpando was great, so glad I changed, even if it did cost me €20. A decent breakfast too. Today's route was a straight northeast diagonal on minor roads to the N 120 then East. The minor roads were bliss, apart from the first 5 miles or so which were really bumpy. I was beginning to regret the short cut, but after that the road surfaces were great and the roads were empty. Villalda was a nice little town for a lunch stop, I didn't want a whole menu del dia but there wasn't anything else. It was good and filling. An hour later I was back on a minor road for another 10 miles then the N 120 which was still pretty deserted apart from a few touring cyclists. I also had tailwind for most of the day. I made it to Carrion de Los Condes and Campsite Eden. A bit of misnomer, fairly basic campsite. Surely they had bogroll in Eden. Dogs on campsites really annoy me as often their owners just let them wander. I caught one about to pee on someone's tent so I shooed him away! (Last year at a campsite in Barcelona an English woman's dog took a dump and she pretended not to notice! )
Met a nice English couple Adrian and Phaedra, who were doing a cycle for 2 years! They left about the same time as me but were doing some work along the way. Cooked a dinner on the stove tonight and had some left over for breakfast.
Day 30. Carrion de Los Condes to Burgos. 57 miles.
A crap night's sleep at at the campsite left me grumpy and tired this morning. I still managed to get on the road by 9. As I'd had a good breakfast and Burgos only about 50 miles I decided to crack on and have lunch at my destination. I wasn't quite sure where to stay, after last night I didn't fancy camping again. I wasn't fussed about staying in the centre of Burgos, so opted for the East side on the road out, to give me a head start the next day. I found one near a McDonald's ( sad I know). It was quite pricey at €43 Inc breakfast, but there didn't seem to be much else around and I was knackered. It had good reviews. The room and decor were fine but no air con for this price :( I wish I'd pressed on. Oh well, breakfast is served from 7 so I should be able to get an early start. The cycling was fairly uneventful today, no massive hills and even a slight headwind didn't slow me much. I went round the inner ring road of Burgos which saved me from a lot of slow traffic and traffic lights in the centre.
Day 31. Burgos to Vitoria. 64 miles.
The hotel at Burgos wasn't great and overpriced but did an early breakfast so got an early start. Bit of a headwind but not too bad and clocked up 40 miles by 1pm on the N1. Scenery getting better again with mountains and cliffs. After Miranda del Ebro I finally left Castile and Leon which is Spain ' s largest autonomous region and entered the Basque country. I now had a dilemma as the N1 had become an Autovia and bikes not allowed with no obvious alternative. Google maps wanted to send me on a bit of a detour so I looked up walking instead and found a more direct route. Trouble is about a mile of it was on a very rough dirt track. Also I bumped into a Dutch cyclist here. We then reached the old N1 which was fine for several miles then came to an abrupt end. We were able to cross the bridge and go along the slip road but there was no option but to chance it on the motorway for for a couple of km til the next junction, which was where my hotel was. Walter hadn't booked anywhere so went on to a campsite. There's a jazz festival in Vitoria this weekend so accommodation is tight. I'm very pleased with the hotel. Large room and bathroom and a 24h cafeteria. Bike in room no problem. Started to rain quite heavily so pleased I got here when I did!
Day 32. Vitoria to Zarautz. 73 miles.
Early start from the hotel Ruta del Europa and a decent breakfast. It's grey and overcast and quite cool. Head to Vitoria but it's an Autovia again, Google maps lied! Luckily his early on a Sunday morning there's no one about so I get away with it again. I wonder how my Dutch friend got on? Navigate through vitoria, speak to a cyclist who tried to send me East but I want to go north. I find myself on a dirt track again! But then find the right way and am then winding my way through the mountains. It's great cycling and more downhill than up. There are quite a few fair sized towns, lots of cyclists but no touring cyclists. I'm worried that the N road is going to say no bikes but it's fine, phew! I get my first glimpse of the sea since Gibraltar 2 weeks earlier. Then I'm into the seaside town of Debia. Then it's a tough climb along the cliff road to over 200m and then back down to sea level. I eventually reach the town and have some difficulty finding the campsite but I realise I'm too high. All that climbing for nothing! It's ok, quite busy. It's the sunny and warm but there's a nice breeze so I string up my washing line and hang my washing out. The campsite cafeteria is very good and inexpensive. I look up places in France tomorrow and realise that hotels are very expensive. Looks like I'll be camping all the way m
Day 33. Zarautz to Capbreton. 70 miles.
Got a good night's sleep at the very good campsite in Zarautz. Continued to San Sebastián which was a bit of a nightmare to navigate and I saw the Dutch cycle tourist again! But luckily he didn't see me so managed to avoid him. Once I got through San Sebastian the road to Irun said no bikes as went through a tunnel but there was an alternative. Once in Irun I crossed a bridge and I was in France! Again no checks of any kind, you wouldn't even have known it was a border. France was a complete culture shock after Spain. It was really built up, and the roads very busy often with no cycle lane or shoulder. It was like this all the way up to Bayonne and beyond. Also the petrol stations which had been my lifeline in Spain were not so frequent and many were automated so no refreshments. There were lots of McDonald's though and very good quality.
Turned off the road to Capbreton and it was a little less busy with traffic. Hotels were all 80 to 100€ , about 4 times the cost in Spain. There were lots of campsites but mostly full. Eventually found one but it was 34€ , more than most of the hotels in Spain. Wi Fi was extra and was crap, and electricity extra and I couldn't use it anyway as I didn't have one of those caravan type plugs.
I had a great time in Spain, but France was a big let down and it was their peak holiday season. It felt like one giant centre Parc! I was pretty weary now after 6 weeks on the road so decided to come home.
Day 34. Capbreton to Biarritz. 25 miles.
Cycled back to Biarritz. As I approached St malo the road was closed and there was a diversion. As I get closer to the ibis hotel, there's a big cloud of smoke. Protesters are burning tyres on a roundabout literally across the road from my hotel window. Luckily the wind is blowing the other way. It's peaceful though and they aren't blocking the roads. The hotel is really good, it's a shame I won't get my money's worth as an early start tomorrow.
Day 35. St malo to home.
Up early for breakfast. After that I cycled the short distance to the ferry terminal. My bike had its own little room! I'm the only bike tourist on this crossing. Find my reclining seat and relax. It's a long crossing, about 9 hours, but the most direct and saves a lot of road miles. Plus no migrants here, think it was a wise move to avoid calais. I go out to sit on the deck as it's nice and sunny. Eventually the Isle of Wight comes in to view, then dock at Portsmouth. The international port is about a mile from the domestic one where you get the Isle of Wight ferry. I cycle to the station and there is a train problem. signal fault at Portsmouth Harbour. Great, welcome back to Britain! There's the usual chaos and misinformation. A train is laid on but split in to 2. The front half is about to leave and although it's a slower train I decide to get it. It was fine, not too busy and 2 hours later I'm at Waterloo. It's a short cycle to blackfriars and then train to Bedford. The first train is cancelled, and the next train is busy and there's no dedicated bike spaces. It's a relief to get off and cycle home, but cold!
Stats
Day 1 58.4 miles, 2126 ft, 86.9f
Day 2 35.1 miles, 738 ft, 78.2 f
Day 3 28.8 miles, 482 ft, 82.3 f
Day 4 74.6 miles, 2608 ft, 80.3 f
Day 5 80 miles, 1850 ft, 86.7 f
Day 6 50.6 miles, 1283 ft, 90.7 f
Day 7 53 miles, 594 ft, 90.5 f
Day 8 46.6 miles, 177 ft, 91.3 f
Day 9 59 miles, 2533 ft, 92.9 f
Day 10 58 miles, 1594 ft, 92.9 f
Day 11 63.1 miles, 3602 ft 92.3 f
Day 12 26.4 miles 1030 ft 88.1 f
Day 13 39.1 miles 2415 ft 86.4 f
Day 14 38.4 miles 3612 ft 96.7 f
Day 15 58 miles 5203 ft 99.6 f
Day 16 49 miles 4117 ft 104.9 f
Day 17 48.1 miles 2848 ft 98.8 f
Day 18 56.6 miles 2949 ft 95.3 f
Day 19 62.2 miles 3061 ft 91.6 f
Gibraltar 23.2 miles 1995 ft 88.8 f
Day 20 66.4 miles 4272 ft 94.3 f
Day 21 55.7 miles 1827 ft 100.4 f
Day 22 56 miles 3904 ft 99.8 f
Day 23 40 miles 1591 ft 98.2 f
Day 24 74.8 miles 2454 ft 84 f
Day 25 63.3 miles 2493 ft 93 f
Day 26 70.3 miles 4754 ft 92.8 f
Day 27 61.4 miles 3071 ft 89.9 f
Day 28 68.5 miles 2943 ft 93 f
Day 29 59.3 miles 1129 ft 92.9 f
Day 30 57.3 miles 1732 ft 86.9 f
Day 31 64 miles 1719 ft 87.3 f
Day 32 72.5 miles 2539 ft 80.7 f
Day 33 71.1 miles 3087 ft 86.8 f
Day 34 23 miles 817 ft 82.3 f
Day 2 35.1 miles, 738 ft, 78.2 f
Day 3 28.8 miles, 482 ft, 82.3 f
Day 4 74.6 miles, 2608 ft, 80.3 f
Day 5 80 miles, 1850 ft, 86.7 f
Day 6 50.6 miles, 1283 ft, 90.7 f
Day 7 53 miles, 594 ft, 90.5 f
Day 8 46.6 miles, 177 ft, 91.3 f
Day 9 59 miles, 2533 ft, 92.9 f
Day 10 58 miles, 1594 ft, 92.9 f
Day 11 63.1 miles, 3602 ft 92.3 f
Day 12 26.4 miles 1030 ft 88.1 f
Day 13 39.1 miles 2415 ft 86.4 f
Day 14 38.4 miles 3612 ft 96.7 f
Day 15 58 miles 5203 ft 99.6 f
Day 16 49 miles 4117 ft 104.9 f
Day 17 48.1 miles 2848 ft 98.8 f
Day 18 56.6 miles 2949 ft 95.3 f
Day 19 62.2 miles 3061 ft 91.6 f
Gibraltar 23.2 miles 1995 ft 88.8 f
Day 20 66.4 miles 4272 ft 94.3 f
Day 21 55.7 miles 1827 ft 100.4 f
Day 22 56 miles 3904 ft 99.8 f
Day 23 40 miles 1591 ft 98.2 f
Day 24 74.8 miles 2454 ft 84 f
Day 25 63.3 miles 2493 ft 93 f
Day 26 70.3 miles 4754 ft 92.8 f
Day 27 61.4 miles 3071 ft 89.9 f
Day 28 68.5 miles 2943 ft 93 f
Day 29 59.3 miles 1129 ft 92.9 f
Day 30 57.3 miles 1732 ft 86.9 f
Day 31 64 miles 1719 ft 87.3 f
Day 32 72.5 miles 2539 ft 80.7 f
Day 33 71.1 miles 3087 ft 86.8 f
Day 34 23 miles 817 ft 82.3 f
Totals 1911.8 miles, 83149 ft.
No comments:
Post a Comment