Bayonne to Blighty 2016

Heading off for a new bike adventure today. Getting the bike coach all the way to Bayonne in the far southwest of France  to pick up my journey from when I went all the way around Spain last year. So the plan is to cycle up the Atlantic Coast as far as La Rochelle and then head inland through the Loire valley and Normandy to get the ferry back from Dieppe.
In these post Brexit times there will be two big differences from the tour of the Pyrenees I did in May/June before the referendum. One, it will be more costly thanks to a weaker pound. Two, there will be much less daylight so will need to make earlier starts.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 0

Getting here. Using Bike Express again, my 3rd time this year! So handy as door to door from Newport Pagnell services. It's an uneventful journey with no delays despite being a bank holiday weekend in the UK and the end of the French holiday season. Also a lorry hit a footbridge on the M20 in Kent which resulted in its closure but amazingly didn't affect our journey and luckily no serious injuries or fatalities. The channel crossing was quick and a new boat so quite luxurious. Arrived in Bayonne at 10.30 am local time and it was warm and drizzly. All I wanted to do was crash but my room wasn't available for a couple of hours. My front brake had locked as the handlebars had rotated the other way but released once I'd turned the bars back and seemed ok. I hope it hasn't stretched or weakened the cable.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 1

Bayonne to Contis le Bain. 50 miles.
Stayed an extra night at the F1 Bayonne as it was raining Monday morning. Had a great sleep. It stopped by 11 but it was forecast for a thunderstorm in the afternoon. The storm never materialised so I could have cycled today and saved my money! And the next night was really busy and noisy so didn't sleep well :( at least good weather was restored. Left Bayonne, followed Google maps suggestion which was to lead me down a dead end. Found a bonne route and retraced my steps from last year's cycle through Capbreton. I called in at the campsite I stayed at last year, still very pricey! Carried on and eventually found the famous Velodyssey. It was wonderful. beautifully tarmaced and smooth and completely separate from the traffic. Through miles and miles of pine forest. Most campsites seemed quite busy still and expensive so with all this pristine forest I decided to wild camp! Stopped at Contis le bain. Had a nice ice cream and 2 cans of Coke, I was thirsty. Then headed along the velodyssey for about a mile and when no-one was about ventured in to the forest. Confident I was secluded and out of sight. I set up camp. Back in to town for a pizza. I hope I can find my way back!

Bayonne to Blighty Day 2

So, survived the wild camp unscathed! Though I did hear a scream from a sanglier which scared the crap out of me. He probably picked up my scent from my cycling shorts dangling outside my tent. I Googled sangliers attacks, not a good idea when you are on your own in the forest! Brewed a coffee, packed up and went back in to town for an excellent breakfast. Then picked up the velodyssey again heading to Mimizan. Had lunch at funny little place. The locals had a very strange dialect that I thought was Basque or something but she said they were speaking French. Then went on the main road to Arcachon as more direct, but not very pleasant. Straight, busy, flat and a headwind. Found the municipal campsite which was really good and ordered pastries for breakfast! Very civilised! Went to local pizza restaurant La Vache which was very good.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 3

Wasn't sure whether to stay another night as I had to move my pitch anyway so decided to pack up. Went to visit the Dune du Pilat, the largest sand dune in Europe. By chance a Czech woman and her boy asked me the way and I realised I was going the wrong way! Went through a hilly road in the forest and found it. What an amazing sight. Had to take my shoes and socks off to walk in the sand. Climbed up the steps as easier, but still quite tough. Good views from the top of Cap Feret. Then cycled around the coast to Arcachon. Stopped for lunch which took ages as only one guy serving. Then checked out the pier but by this time it was getting too late for the ferry, so headed back to the campsite. Pitch looks better and met a nice couple from Australia called Dave and Jennifer who were cycle touring. They had come from the north so had some useful tips for me.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 4

Had the best night's sleep camping so far. Got up and packed away and cycled the 5 miles to the ferry terminal at Arcachon in time to get the 10am ferry. Was pretty chaotic though! Only a small boat and there looked far too many people. There were quite a few bikes so I pushed in a bit and just managed to get on. The gangway was slippery though and my heavily laden touring bike skidded down and almost ended up in the water with all my possessions. Nearly a disaster! Then I had no take all the panniers off so they could load it on the roof! 30 minutes later we landed at Cap Ferret and I was relieved to get off intact. Met Reg, a nice older guy from NZ.
I followed Dave and Jennifer's directions which were spot on. The first section was quite busy with daytrippers dawdling along the cycle way and sometimes just stopping without looking and blocking the path. Once I got out on the road north it was deserted, flat and dead straight. Even with a bit of a headwind I racked up the miles. Al Lacanau a kindly chap on a recumbent recommended me a restaurant, but boy was it pricey. Brochette with salad and 2 cokes €19!!
Mon dieu! At Hourtin I found the campsite recommended and it was only €7 special rate for cyclists! So less than half my snack earlier. And there's a bar and restaurant on site. Large site and pretty empty.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 5

The campsite at Hourtin was superb. Quiet, cheap and cheap food on site. Very helpful on the desk and spoke good English. I decided to bin my Aldi cycling shorts as the padding was coming away, a decision I was to regret. I knew it wasn't far to the ferry to Royan. And as Royan was quite large and I couldn't find any reasonable hotel accommodation it made sense to stay the night on this side of the Gironde. About 10 miles in I realised my Polaris shorts weren't that well padded and I cursed myself for chucking the other ones. No going back though! This is a one way trip! Hopefully the altura ones are better. A fairly uneventful ride, and it's time to look for a campsite. The municipal one is quite far from the ferry, so I press on. Chose one in town near a large supermarket. Just under €15 so double last night and only half as good! The pitch is all right, almost like a little garden with hedges all around. But I'm quite near the bogs and it's noisier than the others. I walk to the supermarket and buy enough for dinner and breakfast as there's nowhere to eat round here. A long queue at the supermarket as not many cashiers and no separate or automated pay for baskets. No photos today!

Bayonne to Blighty Day 6

There were noisy neighbours at the campsite :( got away in good time and then only had about 5 miles to the Gironde ferry. Wow, a proper sized boat and only €5. Got chatting to a Swiss couple and conversed in a mixture of french, German and English! On the other side went 5 miles out of my way to a McDonald's! Then left Royan and decided to take the velodyssey which was a good move as nice route along the coast and of course easy navigation. Bumped in to the Swiss couple again en route. Looked around the area just before Ile d'oleron. The municipal didn't look very nice so found the Bel Air which looked good and had a special area for velo.  €10 per night so not too bad. And a McDonald's nearby. Only downside is due to the marshy area it was mosquito infested :(

Bayonne to Blighty Day 7

Went to McDonald's for breakfast but they didn't open til 10 so had a long wait. Unfortunately when I got back to the campsite I discovered that my battery pack that was charging in the toilets was gone! This was a disaster as I am reliant on it for charging my gadgets while camping. And my phone is vital for navigation. The campsite even put a sign up to see if anyone would hand it in but to no avail. I was going to visit Ile d'oleron but the theft of this put a dampener on things and I didn't feel like leaving my tent and belongings. So I just hung around for the day. As the day wore on, my little camping area filled up and became quite crowded. There was an older English woman and a french couple who had taken their tiny tot cycle touring with them. The kid turned out to be very noisy. Who the hell takes such a small child cycle touring? I had to cover up today to keep the mossies away.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 8

Despite the noise and overcrowding I slept pretty well. Made an early start as I knew I had a long cycle. Everyone was being quiet as the family with noisy kid were still asleep, but why?? I made as much noise as possible. I had already booked a premiere classe in Niort before the battery was stolen. Navigation was quite tricky especially the first half. I missed a turn at the beginning which added 5 miles to my journey :( back on track I was running on empty but found a lovely boulangerie for pastries and coffee. Also I put my phone on power saver which was a life saver! It cuts down the background data so I was still able to use maps but the battery life was significantly longer. Phew! Once on the main road to Surgeres the navigation was easier. I had to negotiate Niort in the rush hour traffic in the heat, but I made it after 68 miles. The hotel was a bit better than F1 as en suite, but the a/c wasn't working :( I had a very good meal at the pasta place down the road.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 9

Today's destination was Thouars, about 50 miles due north. Always north! A mixture of small roads and main roads but I made good time. I almost bonked towards the end but refuelled just before thouars and felt much better. Thouars was a beautiful medieval town. The chambre d'hote was quite luxurious and had a pool! Unfortunately I was short of time so not able to use it or see much of the town. Found a good pasta place, bit fast foody but good and cheap. Back to the hotel - I was the only guest. I was able to book the rest of the accommodation and ferry back to the UK. I knew tomorrow was going to be a challenge as it was 80 miles to the next F1 just south of le mans.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 10

The host did an early breakfast at 730 and it was wonderful. So I was on the road by 815. I stuck to main roads today to cover the miles. I got to saumur, had a McDonald's le brunch and had a look at the map and could see a more direct route than Google was suggesting. In saumur there was some military procession going on so a road was closed and I walked my bike for a couple of hundred yards. Then I crossed the Loire and headed out of town which proved to be a good road. I was getting hungry but the first supermarket was closed so had to cycle another 10 miles to the next town where there was a larger supermarket that was open. After a cloudy morning the heat was building and I really wanted a cold drink and an ice cream but nowhere was open. Eventually I found a tabak and was able to get a couple of cans of Coke! Then eventually got to the F1 at 5pm after 76 miles which was pretty good going! The Campanile next door had a really good restaurant but I regretted choosing the buffet salad. The buffet pudding would have been a better option! 

Bayonne to Blighty Day 11

I knew that today would be an easier to, only about 40 miles to alencon. But first I had to negotiate Le Mans. It wasn't too bad but it was a relief to be out of the city. Cities are always such slow progress and you have to constantly look at the map. Also I find french cities a bit grey and depressing. I stopped at a roadside tabak/bar/bookie that seem to be common in France. The hostess was Portuguese and friendly. A local cyclist was there and we got chatting. When I explained my journey they were very impressed especially when they saw what I was carrying. Chapeau, chapeau he said! The woman thought I had an electric motor. I wish! Through a forest and stopped at a small town for boulangerie. Then I made it to alencon. The F1 was a carbon copy of the Le Mans one, I even had the same room number! Dinner was at the Campanile next door but I went for the dessert buffet this time.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 12

I knew it was 60 miles to Lisieux today, directly north. I was a bit worried that the Ibis budget being a bit more upmarket might not let me take the bike in the room. So I made an early start to try and get there in the middle of the afternoon and use the automated check in. Today was bliss! First of all, I had a proper tailwind for the first time! Secondly, the scenery was much better than the rest of France which had been pretty dull so far. Lots of rolling hills and woods that reminded me of Shropshire or the Cotswolds. Then I found a brilliant little lane that was straight, smooth and pretty flat. With the tailwind the miles just flew by, through the little village of Orville and in no time I was approaching Lisieux and it was coming up to 3pm. Perfect timing! In to town and then a long climb to finish the day. The check in was deserted, so first of all I hid the bike round the side, took off my cycling shoes and put clothes over my cycling ones! Then I put my stuff in the room and finally my bike all undetected. Yes! The hotel and room was lovely. A big room and the tv had bbc world. The shower head had multi coloured leds! I definitely think they would have been funny about the bike. McDonald's over the road - sorted. Lots of rally type Pugs, Saxos etc in town. Must be some event on.

Bayonne to Blighty Day 13

Looked at the ibis breakfast which looked lovely but for some reason decided to go to McDonald's instead. Bad choice. Poor breakfast and they gave me the wrong coffee but I couldn't be bothered to complain. So I went back to ibis budget and had a 2nd breakfast! Good move as it was good quality and buffet. Also being a Sunday in France I was aware I might not find anything later. So headed out of town on nice country lanes again when an English approached me on bikes. We rode together for a bit but I had missed my turn so bade them goodbye and headed back. I hadn't gone far wrong and was soon back on track. Again on smaller roads and fairly light traffic as it was Sunday. Quite hilly. Then I met another touring cyclist who was french so I couldn't be bothered speaking to him. Eventually I could see the huge mouth of the Seine river and the mighty Pont de Normandy. I knew there must be a cycle route over it but the approach was motorway traffic only. I panicked a bit as if I couldn't cross it would mean a long detour. I went to the west of the bridge and found an access road that went under the bridge and then I could see the cycle way. Hurrah! The bridge was huge and quite a steep climb and descent the other side. Fun though. Once I was down I was in the port/ harbour area of Le Havre which went on for miles. I passed a lake where I saw a cormorant eating a fish and a kingfisher! So good that nature can thrive alongside industry. I had to wait while a bridge was up while a ship passed through. Not far now, but quite a climb up and not the best looking area. I didn't hang about and made it look  like I knew where I was going. Found the F1 and no problems checking in or taking the bike in. A bit bigger room this time. Dinner at the Campanile next door. Feeling like Groundhog Day! And also, I can say that I have crossed France in 11 days (plus 2 rest days - one of which I cycled 25 miles!

Bayonne to Blighty Day 14

Usual breakfast at the F1. I knew the last day would be tough, as I wanted to visit the cliffs at Etretat first and then go to Dieppe. 66 miles in total and close to a km of climbing, by far the highest of the tour. The first section to etretat was hunky dory and a continuation of the nice rolling countryside. 17 miles to Etretat and it was fantastic! The cliffs were just like they looked on Coast and you didn't have to walk anywhere to see them. Along with the Dune du Pilat, this was the highlight of the trip. Up to this point I had been heading due north. But now I couldn't go any further north and headed East to Dieppe. Boy, this was the toughest section of the tour! First of all I was back in to a full on headwind. Then there was a series of drops to the sea or a river and then a climb up. A bit like Cornwall! After a stop for a boulangerie Google then sent me down a narrow lane that ended up a track. Then became so difficult you'd struggle with a quad bike! I had to carry the bike over obstructions and then a monster of a hill that even pushing was hard. I was lucky it was dry or this would have been a mud bath.  Eventually I got back to a road and was able to make some progress again. Google said this shortcut was 10 minutes quicker! Must have cost me half an hour at least. I was also low on water. I was going through small villages so not much available. Then I found the most unfriendly bar in France. I paid  €2.50 for a measly little coke. I asked her to fill my bottles but she begrudgingly only filled one! I didn't realise water was rationed here. I couldn't be bothered arguing so just stormed out. I had enough to get me to Dieppe. Then it was back on to a main road and the headwind with no respite on the high plain. It seemed to take forever but eventually found the F1 and checked in and showered.  What a relief! I was feeling a bit dehydrated so downed a 500m coke. Unfortunately the McDonald's was a bit of a trek, but at least Dieppe seems a lot nicer than Le Havre so I felt fine walking. It was a good McDonald's so had a big meal plus Daim Mcflurry. I felt a bit sick to begin with but ate slowly and once I'd filled up and drunk I was better.

Bayonne to Blighty - the Journey Home

Only a few miles from the F1 to the ferry terminal. But there were roadblocks in town, not sure why so had to take quite a detour, but found a route via a footbridge as lots of waterways in Dieppe. Eventually found the ferry terminal and the ferry was huge! Quite a lot of fences and barbed wire to deter illegals from getting in, but there were no sign of any here. Had a couple of hours to kill in the terminal. Another cycle tourist here from France. Finally boarded the ferry and it was brilliant. Much better than P and O. It was huge with lots of places to sit and eat, plus a really big sundeck. True to form the weather was scorching again so it was a nice 5 hour cruise to Newhaven. Once in Newhaven - 3.30pm local time I just had the short cycle of 11 miles or so along the coast to Brighton. But first I had to find the coast road which wasn't easy! Google Maps sent me along the cycle route which which was an untarmacked road up a steep hill. Not a good start. Popped in to a corner shop for some refreshments. Kids loitering and fatty fat fats with tattoos so I knew I was back in Blighty! Once I got on to the coast road it was a lovely undulating cycle with views out across the English Channel and still boiling hot. I soon reached Brighton and took the cycle route along the seafront. Some twat youth on a scooter cut me up so I gave him a mouthful but easily lost him in the crowds. I came to the iconic Brighton Pier - which I cycled to twice from London to Brighton. Then a bit further to the station where I found the trains were up the spout - again. I got some Indian food from the kiosk. Along with the fish and chips on the ferry this marked the first day of me being a vegetarian! There was no information on the trains and people were getting frustrated. I chatted to a friendly Chinese chap from London who had come on a day trip to Brighton on his bike but had regretted coming by train! The lack of information was really frustrating but eventually managed to get on a train which as was so delayed was not stopping at many places! Phew! So only stopped at Gatwick, East Croydon and after the London stations didn't stop at many stops til Bedford. The only downside was it didn't stop at Flitwick either. So once in Bedford I could have waited for a long time til the Bletchley line but fortunately I just stayed on the train I was on and it went south again and I was able to get out at Flitwick. Now just 5 miles to cycle home in the dark (and it was cold!) and I was home at last.

Post script - I ended up getting prostatitis on this trip. I've never had anything like this before. I think it was a combination of the heat, not being able to wash my kit and the punishing schedule I had set myself once my charger got nicked. I got treatment for it and am fully recovered and have been back on the bike again.

Starting from Roses on the Spanish Mediterranean coast I had now cycled all the way to Gibraltar, then back through eastern Spain/Portugal, through the Basque country and over the French border and up the Atlantic coast and then inland all the way to Dieppe. Then Newhaven to Brighton. As I mentioned I had already cycled London Bridge to Brighton twice. So the only piece of the jigsaw left was to cycle from London Bridge to home! So I waited for the right conditions and over a month later - once fully recovered from the prostatitis there was a perfect day on Halloween. A beautifully sunny, warm day with no wind. So I cycled to Flitwick and took the train to Blackfriars as London Bridge closed at the moment. Then I cyled the 50 miles home. I went via London Bridge, then Islington, Highbury corner, Muswell Hill (I'd forgotten how hilly North London was!), and then through the places of my childhood in the 'Barnets' (Friern, New and High). Nice to see old haunts but doesn't feel like home any more. Then finally escaped London's clutches, through St Albans. I'm pushing time and don't want to cycle in the dark so I don't call in on my Mum. Then up the A5 through Dunstable and where I used to live in Hockliffe before the final 10 miles home. A fitting end to close the chapter of my Pan west European cycle ride.